The ultimate guide to Costa Rica

“Pura vida,” the most common phrase you’ll likely hear in Costa Rica, is used either as a greeting or as a response similar to “no worries.” But spend some time here and you’ll understand that pura vida is also a mindset — optimistic and appreciative of the present moment. 

If you’re paying attention, you’ll start to notice the sentiment all around you: as you breathe the fresh, crisp air of a high-altitude cloud forest, melt into hot springs heated by an active volcano or snorkel the clear waters along the Caribbean coast.

If you’re planning a trip to this wildlife-packed country for the first time, keep reading — this is everything you need to know.

Where to go

Don’t be fooled by Costa Rica’s size. It may be comparable to West Virginia, but road conditions and changing weather can make driving times significantly longer than they look on the map. 

Save time and sanity by building your itinerary around just one or two regions. The Northern Pacific is popular with surfers and beachgoers, and the adventure hub of Arenal attracts active travelers interested in volcano hikes and whitewater rafting.

Those who want to wander off the beaten path should venture east to the Caribbean coast for some snorkeling and coconut stew, or head to the South Pacific for whale watching and a trek through the pristine wilderness of Corcovado National Park.

San José and the Central Valley

Best for:  historic walking tours and unexpected culinary experiences

Planning on making a beeline for the beaches or rainforests on arrival, without so much as an hola to San José? Many travelers do, but Costa Rica’s capital city and the surrounding Central Valley offer access to a mix of cities, villages, volcanoes and national parks worthy of a visit. 

You can stroll through history on a downtown walking tour, get a crash course in Costa Rican cuisine as you taste your way through the Central Market and sample some of the country’s best craft brews on an evening pub crawl — all in one day in San José. Day trip possibilities within 1.5 hours of the city include visiting an active volcano, hiking in a high-altitude cloud forest, and coffee cupping (think: wine tasting, but with coffee) at an organic coffee plantation. 

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific

Best for: luxury resort getaways and catching your first wave 

More than 400 miles of coastline along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast is ideal for those dreaming of leisurely beach days and five-star service. Popular places for pampering include the Papagayo Peninsula, just an hour’s drive from Liberia Airport, and the Nicoya Peninsula, a wellness destination in Costa Rica’s Blue Zone. 

World-class waves attract pro surfers to the Northern Pacific year-round, but even novices can get in on the action with a surf lesson at one of the beginner-friendly breaks — that is, if you can manage to peel yourself off your sunlounger.    

Osa and the South Pacific

Best for: wildlife encounters and raw nature

There’s something magical about the South Pacific region of Costa Rica that sticks with you long after you leave. Perhaps it’s the first time you witness a humpback whale breach the surface or a playful dolphin glide through the glassy water at Ballena National Marine Park.

Or maybe it’s the moment you glimpse both the Pacific and Caribbean coastlines on clear days from atop Cerro Chirripó, the highest peak in the country. Or quite possibly it’s the exhilarating feeling of trekking deep into the wilderness of Corcovado National Park, one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. Make the effort to reach the South Pacific region of Costa Rica, and find what magic awaits you.  

Arenal and the Northern Plains

Best for: leisurely birdwatching and adrenaline-inducing adventures

If your perfect trip involves heart-pumping activities and quiet moments in nature, head to the Northern Plains. With Arenal Volcano as the centerpiece, surrounded by forests, rivers and waterfalls, this region is a true adventure hub with a softer side. 

In addition to paddling whitewater rapids, rappelling down waterfalls and ziplining above the forest canopy, you can also spot toucans and other colorful birds on a quiet nature walk, take a silent stroll along hanging bridges suspended among the trees or simply take a seat in the thermal hot springs and enjoy doing absolutely nothing at all.

Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean

Best for: seeing another side of Costa Rica

Not one to follow the crowds? The Caribbean side of Costa Rica might be more your vibe. You’ll experience Indigenous and Afro-Caribbean influences woven into the culture, from the rondon stew served at beachfront restaurants and the handcrafted baskets sold in souvenir shops to the calypso and reggae music blasting from the bars. 

The great outdoors has a lot to offer too: Coral reefs and clear waters make for excellent snorkeling, big waves bring big surf competitions and mass turtle nesting in Tortuguero National Park is a natural spectacle worth traveling for.

When to go

Costa Rica is always a good idea, but the best time to visit really depends on your budget and interests. On the Pacific coast, the dry season generally runs from December through April, typically with higher prices and larger crowds.

The rainy season (also known as the green season) brings most of the rainfall, and discounts on accommodations, tours and rental cars from May through November. However, the Caribbean coast follows a different pattern, with relatively drier periods in February and March and September and October.

But no matter when you visit, the country’s microclimates mean that it could be hot and sunny in one area and pouring rain in another, so it’s best to choose your travel dates based on your priorities.     

The best time for sun seekers

If your only agenda is relaxing around the pool or at the beach, plan your trip to the Pacific side of Costa Rica between December and March. Dry season is also high season, so book in advance and expect larger crowds, especially at the start of dry season, which coincides with the end-of-year holidays.  

The best time for wildlife lovers

Leatherback turtles nest in Tortuguero from March through June, and green sea turtles nest from July through October. The mass nesting of olive ridley turtles at Playa Ostional can occur year-round, though some of the largest arribadas, or “arrivals,” take place between July and November.

Want to see whales? You can spot humpbacks along the Pacific coast from December to mid-March and late July to mid-October. 

The best time for budget travelers and spontaneous types

Want to get the best bang for your buck? Book your trip during the green season when visitor numbers dip and tour operators, hotels and rental car companies are more likely to offer discounts. The green season is also great for travelers who prefer to plan as they go rather than in advance — fewer visitors means more last-minute availability for tours, activities and hotels.

How to get there — and around 

Flights

Costa Rica has two main international passenger airports: Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), near San José, and Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (LIR), in Liberia, also known as Guanacaste Airport.

SJO is generally best for those visiting the Central Valley, the Caribbean and the southern Pacific (such as Manuel Antonio and the Osa Peninsula), while LIR is ideal for those headed to Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula. 

The driving time to La Fortuna and the Arenal area is generally about the same from both. Keep in mind that SJO is larger, wait times can be longer and traffic around San José is typically worse than it is in Liberia. If you’re visiting both coasts, it may be best to book your flights into one airport and out of the other. 

Getting around

Rental cars are the most common mode of transportation for visitors. However, winding and rough roads, aggressive drivers, changing weather conditions and wildlife can make driving a challenge.

If you prefer to sit back and let a local expert get you where you want to go, you have options. Shared shuttles, such as Interbus, run regular routes between popular spots, and taxis and rideshares are good for shorter jaunts in populated areas (you won’t typically find them in more rural areas, though). Small aircraft also offer quicker connections to far-flung places like Drake Bay.   

What to do

Costa Rica is paraíso for outdoor enthusiasts. Whether your dream vacation involves trekking through the rainforest, surfing world-class waves, rappelling a waterfall, soaking in natural hot springs under the stars, witnessing turtles come ashore to nest, or simply watching a magical sunset — or a combination of all of the above — it can be your reality here.

Take a surf lesson in Samara

You don’t have to be a pro to catch some waves in Costa Rica. Several spots around the country are suited to beginners, and Samara, with its consistent and typically gentle waves, is an ideal place for your first paddle out. It’s also a cute surf town with beachfront bars and restaurants, perfect for a little post-surf lesson celebration. 

Watch turtles come ashore in Playa Ostional

You’re not the only one drawn to Costa Rica’s beaches. Sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs at different spots along both coasts at various times of the year. If you want to see them arrive en masse, head to Playa Ostional in September or October, when olive ridley sea turtles show up in the hundreds (and sometimes thousands).

Trek through volcanic terrain in Arenal

Get a double dose of Costa Rica’s incredible environment with a hike along the lava trails around Arenal Volcano, followed by a relaxing dip in the geothermal hot springs. But be warned: If you’re not a birdwatcher already, you may very well become one here. The region is home to over 350 bird species, including several types of toucans.

Every moment outdoors, from sipping coffee on your balcony to hiking near the volcano or even taking a stroll around La Fortuna town (where you can sometimes see sloths too), is an opportunity to encounter wildlife. 

What to eat

Costa Rican food seems simple on the surface, but nibble your way around the country and you’ll get a taste of the tropical environment, ranching and fishing culture and Indigenous, Spanish and Caribbean influences. 

Dive into a rice-and-beans dish at a soda, a casual Costa Rican restaurant. Order up a fresh ceviche while admiring a coastal sunset. Sample coffee and chocolate grown in Costa Rica’s mineral-rich volcanic soil. Had a little too much guaro, the beloved local sugarcane liquor? A slow-cooked, traditional beef stew will bring you back to life. In Costa Rica, farm-to-table isn’t a passing trend; it’s always been on the menu.  

Gallo pinto

You’d have to put in real effort not to eat gallo pinto. The national dish, made with rice, black beans and fresh herbs, is typically served for breakfast with eggs, corn tortillas and natilla (a type of sour cream) at most hotels and sodas across the country. It’s the perfect fuel for a day of adventuring, and each region has its own take — some with red or pinto beans and others using the tangy Salsa Lizano. Try gallo pinto at each town on your itinerary, and you’ll practically be a connoisseur by the end of your trip.

Ceviche

Fresh catch marinated in lime juice and aromatics makes the perfect light beach-day bite. The only thing better? Pair your ceviche with patacones, twice-fried green plantains (also known elsewhere as tostones), an Imperial beer and an ocean view.

Olla de carne

When the guaro keeps you out late, and you need a satisfying pick-me-up the next morning, head to a local soda and ask for olla de carne. This slow-cooked beef and vegetable stew, typically served on the weekends, is a popular hangover cure.  

Need to know

Keep your schedule loose

Don’t overschedule your itinerary. Costa Rica’s winding (and in some places, dirt) roads and changing weather conditions mean travel times tend to be longer than they look on the GPS. If you’re planning to drive, always build in a buffer of time, stay alert, avoid dark late-night drives and research your routes; some roads require 4WD.    

Be mindful of your surroundings

Keep your wits about you and heed the guides’ safety instructions. It’s easy to get distracted by the beauty here, but don’t let your brain drift so far into vacation mode that you forget your common sense. Stay away from rivers during and after rainstorms, stick to marked trails and be mindful of where you walk, lean and sit so you don’t startle any critters unintentionally and suffer the consequences. 

Pack for unpredictable weather

Bring your rain jacket and flexible attitude. Dry season doesn’t mean dry everywhere, and many activities are a go, rain and shine.