Imagine a cruise, and chances are you’re picturing a gleaming white ocean liner, overflowing with pools, theatres and bars, cutting across the open seas towards a destination that is, at the very least, palm-fringed, historic and scenically spectacular.
River cruises, for the uninitiated, feel less epic. The ship is unprepossessing (from the outside, at any rate), smaller and (horror of horrors) more intimate.
This is the kind of prejudice that ensures those who love the open seas miss out on some of the greatest fluvial adventures. Indeed, increasingly, the most discerning travellers are looking inland: river cruising is booming.
Of course, then there’s expedition cruising, which takes the intrepid to some of the most isolated islands in the Pacific, and even to Antarctica or the North Pole. The choice is dizzying.
So, should you sail all the rivers, cross all the oceans, or embark on an adventure to the ends of the earth?
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Ocean cruising
Ocean cruising is always the first choice, and for good reason. Modern, larger ships are floating resorts. Lines like Royal Caribbean, MSC Cruises and NCL operate vast vessels carrying upwards of 5,000 passengers, replete with West End-style shows, water parks, zip lines and even surf simulators. They appeal to families and multi-generational groups seeking a holiday where everyone, from toddlers to grandparents, is catered for.
Royal Caribbean is one of the most popular modern cruise lines
Destinations are far-ranging. From week-long Mediterranean circuits to epic transatlantic crossings on Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, ocean cruises can be as short or as long as you want them to be. You unpack once, wake up somewhere new each morning, and rarely worry about logistics. And crucially, ocean cruising can be remarkably good value. Mainstream lines often undercut the cost of comparable land holidays, particularly when you factor in accommodation, food and entertainment.
But there are drawbacks. The sheer scale of these ships means you rarely dock in the centre of town. Venice, Dubrovnik, and Barcelona have all introduced measures to limit the influx of cruise passengers, while in places like Civitavecchia (for Rome) or Le Havre (for Paris), you’ll face a long coach transfer before the sightseeing even begins. With thousands of fellow travellers disembarking at once, ports can feel crowded, and intimacy is sacrificed for spectacle.
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River cruising
River cruising offers almost the opposite experience. Lines like Viking, AmaWaterways and Avalon Waterways use ships that typically carry between 100 and 200 passengers, creating an entirely different atmosphere: relaxed, sociable and often all-inclusive.
Viking river cruises boast luxury interiors – Eric Laignel
The appeal is access. River vessels dock right in the heart of cities – Budapest, Vienna, Paris, Porto – allowing you to step off the gangway straight into the action. No lengthy transfers, no queues. Shore excursions are usually included, from wine tastings in the World Heritage-listed Wachau Valley to guided tours of Cologne Cathedral. The pace is gentler, too. A Danube or Rhine itinerary prioritises depth over breadth, with leisurely days drifting past vineyards, castles and baroque towns.
Most passengers have a Juliet balcony (there are no inside cabins), and entertainment is more modest – think an expert-led cheese tasting and a pianist in the lounge rather than West End productions. On-board facilities are catching up, too. Many newer ships, including those operated by Scenic, AmaWaterways, Emerald, A-Rosa and Uniworld, have a small gym or workout studio, a token rooftop pool or whirlpools, and possibly a sauna and massage treatment room.
Travellers onboard an AmaWaterways river cruise
Many travellers relish this slower, more intimate style of holiday, where excursions educate and entertain, and conversation flows as easily as the Riesling.
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Expedition cruising
These are the sector’s wild cards. The promise of an expedition cruise is simple: access to the world’s most remote and fragile environments, with expert guides to interpret them. Hurtigruten, Viking, AE Expeditions, Silversea Expeditions and Lindblad Expeditions are among the burgeoning line-up of expedition-cruise operators.
These voyages trade lazy days on board for twice-daily zodiac landings, where you might step onto the ice beside a colony of emperor penguins or kayak silently past a pod of whales.
Viking offers world-leading exhibition cruises
Ships are purpose-built for polar waters or the biodiverse islands of the Galápagos, often with reinforced hulls, onboard laboratories and teams of scientists, photographers and naturalists, as well as visiting guest speakers who are experts in their field. A handful have submarines for thrilling underwater excursions, and Citizen Science activities deepen the experience. The emphasis is on enrichment, education and responsible tourism.
Expedition cruises are rarely cheap. A 10-day sailing to Antarctica can run into the tens of thousands, and conditions can be challenging: motion sickness on the Drake Passage is practically a rite of passage. Depending on where you’re going, the weather can be unpredictable too, and you’ll need to factor in a couple of days’ travel time on either side of your cruise. But for those seeking bucket-list experiences, few travel styles can match them.
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Which offers the best value for money?
Ocean cruises generally offer the widest price range. A seven-night Mediterranean voyage on MSC Cruises can start at under £600pp, but extras mount quickly: drinks, excursions, Wi-Fi and gratuities are often not included.
Meanwhile, luxury ocean lines such as Regent Seven Seas or Seabourn push fares into the thousands but bundle almost everything in, from premium wines to unlimited shore excursions.
No expense is spared on luxury lines such as Regent Seven Seas – Steve Beaudet
River cruises, while often shorter, tend to be more inclusive. Viking, for example, includes excursions, Wi-Fi and wine with meals as standard. There are fewer opportunities to overspend: no casino, no speciality dining venues, no upmarket boutiques. The up-front fare is higher, but the on-board bill is often negligible.
Expedition cruises occupy the top shelf of the cruising world, and prices reflect the privilege. Zodiac landings, expert talks and expedition gear – the insulated waterproof jackets and boots – come as standard. Drinks, tips and the more daring add-ons (say, an overnight on Antarctic ice) will nudge the total higher. This isn’t travel measured in pounds per night, but in memories, once-in-a-lifetime experiences and bragging rights.
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Which one is right for you?
Ultimately, it all comes down to what you want from your time away. Those chasing variety – and perhaps a kids’ club, plenty of bars and entertainment on tap – will find ocean cruises irresistible. Culture seekers, meanwhile, are better suited to rivers: swapping beaches for boulevards, and broad itineraries for more considered touring and deeper connections, with a glass of local wine or locally brewed beer never far from hand. For unforgettable scenery, a special celebration, a bucket-list wish or an interest in wildlife, expedition cruises beckon.
Some river cruises now have small pools onboard – Scenic Cruises
There’s no obvious right answer – many cruisers mix and match. One year the Danube, the next the Caribbean, the year after that, the Northwest Passage. Each cruise style offers something unique, and many become converts to all three.
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The expert opinion
Confession: I’m a sea urchin at heart and have always been drawn to the endless blue. For me, for a long time, waking up to a new horizon, exploring a new island and strapping on a scuba tank to explore a new reef ensured cruises were synonymous with the ocean. And, where overdrafts were allowed, it was expedition cruises that I most prized.
Writer Murray is a particularly big fan of Douro river cruises – Uniworld Boutique River Cruises
Until, that is, I sailed up the Douro and was hit by the fervour of the newly converted. Ease of access to cities and towns, finding community among a much smaller number of passengers, vineyards as far as the eye could see and wandering ashore with 20 tasting rooms pinned on Google Maps proved irresistible.
Cruising, in all its forms, is about perspective. On the oceans, you’ll see the world’s sweep and scale. The mood is likely to be light and fun. On rivers, you’ll spend more time off the ship exploring culture up close. And on expeditions, you witness the planet’s fragility and wonder. The trick, perhaps, is not to choose one over the others – but to understand what each offers, and to let them complement each other.
After all, the world is large, its waterways many, and your cruising life long enough to sample them all.
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About our expert
Murray Garrard
Murray got his sea legs young, when he took a topper off a beach in South Devon and charted a course for the south Atlantic, only to capsize yards from the shore. Not put off, since then he’s spent as much time on – and indeed in – the sea as possible, sailing on every ocean and every type of ship, and has travelled to over 180 countries.
Telegraph Travel’s cruise expert, Murray Garrard
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