What I discovered exploring the ‘happiest place in America’

It’s a place synonymous with a certain cartoon mouse. But there are many reasons why Orlando, Florida, was just given the top slot on the 2026 ‘Holiday Happiness Index’ by bookretreats.com – and most of them have nothing to do with theme parks and rollercoasters. In fact, there is a whole new world (pun intended) to explore in this sunshine city, so I travelled there with my husband and our two teenagers to investigate.

Aged 19 and 17, my children were looking for more than parades and fireworks and none of us are fans of thrill-seeking rides. Instead we discovered more rustic and more sophisticated sides of the city as we got up close and personal with alligators, experienced breathtaking nature and visited some truly beautiful neighbourhoods. We stayed at The Grove resort and waterpark, located in Kissimmee, which is around a 15-minute drive to central Orlando. The sprawling resort offers condo-style suites all featuring full kitchens and a living area and there are also multiple pools as well as a water park which we loved for its 700-foot lazy river. This was the perfect base from which to roam around the city, which we did in a gigantic Jeep Wagoneer.

Back to nature

None of us had a particular affinity for alligators before we visited Gatorland. But that all changed after we were shown around by Brandon Fisher, whose knowledge of the animals made us put aside our fears and embrace these creatures. Ziplining across the the 110-acre park (there are five different ziplining rides across the park) was an unforgettable experience, as was feeding the alligators with raw chicken legs within a private enclosure. We left with a newfound appreciation for gators – which is fortunate, as there are around 1.3million of them in Florida.

There are more than 100 lakes within Orlando, providing relief from Florida’s infamous humidity. We found one such oasis when we learnt how to (almost) walk on water with Epic Paddle Adventures on Lake Ivanhoe. To say we were absolute beginners was an understatement, but full kayak and paddleboarding instructions were given before we were expertly guided by instructor Rich on a two-hour journey through calm, clear waters. We caught a glimpse of luxury lake life, gazing in awe at the multi-million dollar properties at the edge of the water while soaking up the tranquillity; it felt as though we had discovered a hidden oasis.

Experiencing an airboat ride was always top of our must-see list and this tour from Wild Florida didn’t disappoint. We were thrilled to see gators sleeping in the wild as we darted around the headwaters of the Florida Everglades, stopping every so often to bear witness to soaring birds and the raw beauty of the creeks. The peaceful stillness of the water was something very special to witness. We finished up with a visit to Wild Florida’s safari where we spied bison, wildebeest, giraffes and zebra all from the comfort of our car.

The best way to experience Florida’s culture

Right in the heart of downtown Orlando lies the modern and (blissfully) air conditioned Dr Phillips Centre for the Performing Arts. Live concerts, opera, dance and symphony shows all take place there and we were able to sample a bit of the city’s culture when we saw the centre’s own production of the Stephen Sondheim classic Into The Woods. Featuring real-life Disney princess Jodi Benson (who voiced Ariel in The Little Mermaid) the production featured Broadway-worthy performances. A tip: the audience dressed up smartly, making us feel underdressed in shorts and t-shirts.

You may also like

Looking for an alternative experience, we decided to spend the afternoon at ICON Park. Once there, we were treated to the madcap world of the Blue Man Group, who offered up a crazy mix of music, technology and comedy as well as awe-inspiring percussion work, often in collaboration with members of the audience. This was brilliant fun and is suitable for all ages, as was the nearby Museum of Illusions Orlando.

Optical illusions and gravity-defying activities made for great fun as we marvelled over mirror images and deceptive experiments which challenged our senses. Helpful members of staff really brought everything to life, directing our photos to make it appear like we were hanging upside down or had lost our heads.

The Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art is home to the world’s most comprehensive collection of work by Louis Comfort Tiffany, whose leaded-glass lamps and windows are on full display here. This small but perfectly formed museum also includes pottery, paintings and artefacts from Tiffany’s exquisite Long Island estate, Laurelton Hall.

The museum is situated in the upmarket and incredibly picturesque Winter Park (about nine miles from central Orlando), which has a pretty, old-fashioned central square and a lovely cobblestone high street. While there, we also enjoyed the Winter Park Scenic Boat tour through the six interconnected lakes in the area, which gave us a close-up view of jaw-droppingly expensive waterfront homes (properties there can go up to $17million) and the leafy campus of the private Rollins College.

The science bit

For anyone even remotely interested in science or space travel, a trip to the Kennedy Space Centre is a must. Just over one hour in a car from our hotel, this gave us a fascinating look behind the gates of NASA. We took a bus ride around the complex and saw the famous Vehicle Assembly Building which stores the rocket ships – and has the biggest doors in the world – as well as launchpads and a gigantic crawler-transporter.

We explored the celebrated rocket garden, took part in a fascinating exhibition about the Space Shuttle Atlantis and recreated the moon landings in a replica of mission control. We also managed to get tickets to enjoy a brilliant Q&A session with former NASA astronaut Charlie Walker which really brought the whole day to life.

Where to eat in Orlando

Fast food restaurants are seemingly on every corner in Orlando, which meant we were craving good, clean meals. And we found it at Maxine’s on Shine which is a local institution, situated in Colonialtown, a pretty neighbourhood around 45 minutes from our hotel. We loved its celebrated Sunday brunch on the eclectically designed outdoor patio where we ate delicious dishes including chicken pimento and a brie, shrimp and bacon omelette, while enjoying a live band and the charming company of Kirt, who set the restaurant up with his wife, the eponymous Maxine.

Brother Jimmy’s in Icon Park (central Orlando) served up delicious North Carolina barbecue food which gave us a real taste of southern cooking and was a world away from the fried food which seems to dominate the locale. The menu offered ‘legendary’ Carolina pulled pork, ribs, brisket, grilled shrimp and deluxe mac and cheese and we happily indulged, almost rolling out of the door when we left.

Our last day in Orlando ended at The Chapman, a stylish and contemporary restaurant in dreamy, upscale Winter Park. We dined on avocado tuna poke bowls and southern chicken sandos as well as a crab and lobster roll while we sipped a couple of cocktails. There was also time for dessert with a perfect crème brulee, all of which was served by our hilarious and sassy waiter, Thomas.

How to book it

Rooms at the Grove Resort and Waterpark cost from £103 ($138) per night and flights to Orlando on British Airways cost from £367. Visit Orlando has all the information on how to plan the perfect trip.

Laura was a guest of Visit Orlando. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.