The Delmarva Peninsula spans the coastlines of three eastern states: Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia. While it is home to many famous beach towns, including Delaware’s iconic Rehoboth Beach, Virginia’s section of the peninsula, known as the Eastern Shore, contains some of Delmarva’s true hidden gems. The Old Dominion is no stranger to charming small towns, and the town of Onancock is absolutely brimming with historic village charm.
Founded in 1680 and called the “Gem of the Eastern Coast” by explorer John Smith, Onancock has been welcoming travelers to its streets for over 300 years. Its small year-round population of just over 1,100 people lends Onancock a true small village feel. However, with numerous restaurants, a thriving arts scene, plenty of history, an international film festival, an old live theater venue, and plenty of opportunities to explore the coast, Onancock is far more vibrant than your average small town.
Despite being tucked into an inlet on the far Eastern Shore of Virginia, Onancock is not overly difficult to reach. From the terminal at the international airport in Norfolk, take Route 13 through the Chesapeake Bay Bridge tunnel and up the Delmarva Peninsula until you reach the exit for VA-179 for Onancock. The whole trip should take about an hour and a half and bring you into one of Virginia’s most charming coastal towns.
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Explore Onancock’s unique history
Sign to John Smith National Historic Trail – EWY Media/Shutterstock
Nestled safely at the end of the long, winding harbor called Onancock Creek, Onancock thrived as a coastal trading center in Chesapeake Bay. This history is evidenced by the numerous colonial and federal era homes that line the creek. A great way to experience these is with a kayak or SUP tour with Burnham Guides. They also provide day trips along the Eastern Shore, including one to the utterly scenic and vastly underrated Chincoteague Island. Paddling these historically calm waters is a great way to experience the vantage point of Captain John Smith as he explored these waterways in the early 1600s.
Speaking of Captain Smith, the Ker Place on Market Street is a stopping point along the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, which traces Smith’s 3,000 plus miles of travel throughout the region. A beautiful brick structure built between 1799 and 1803, the Ker Place is today managed by Shore History and serves as a regional museum complete with art gallery, collections, and a genealogy room.
However, if there is one piece of historic Onancock you should check out, it’s the Samuel D. Outlaw Blacksmith Shop Memorial Museum. Showcasing the life and legacy of notable community member Samuel Outlaw, who served as Onancock’s blacksmith from 1927 to 1991, the museum offers visitors a rare taste of how a single craftsman can impact the whole community. A true hidden gem well worth seeking out.
Don’t miss Onancock’s downtown charms
Market Street, Onancock, VA – John Blottman/Shutterstock
While Onancock is certainly a must-see destination for Virginia history buffs, you cannot miss all of the fun things that are going on downtown. Market Street is the main thoroughfare through town where you will find most of the shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Stop by the Foggy Place Cafe for gourmet coffee and pastries to start your day, then make your way down the street to Crockett Gallery, Danny Doughty Gallery, or Red Queen Gallery for a mix of folk and landscape paintings, as well as pottery, glasswork, and wood carved items.
If you love film, it’s worth taking a trip to the historic Roseland Theatre. Every second Thursday of the month they host Onancock International Films, bringing movies from around the world to the heart of downtown. Prefer live theater? The North Street Playhouse offers a mix of drama, comedy, and musicals throughout the year.
Another must along Market Street is to stop at The Onancock Market. With an outdoor market in the summer and an indoor market for the winter, this vendor-led market brings local produce and artisans directly to downtown. Fill up your grocery bag with produce from local farmers, crafts from local makers, and numerous other things including handmade candles, seafood, and woodworking pieces. Despite being a small, hidden away coastal town, Onancock has so much amazing experiences to offer.
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