Tucked between Lassen Volcanic National Park’s calderas and the winding roads that dip toward the Feather River Canyon, Plumas County feels like California before the crowds. During my recent drive through the area, I was transported to an undiscovered, more nostalgic version of the state, where narrow mountain highways lead to glassy alpine lakes and former gold rush communities still ooze with small-town charm.
As I crossed a vast swath of northern California from Mount Shasta to Tahoe City on my road trip, I came across one of the state’s last unspoiled regions, dotted by quiet rural communities and mostly covered by forest. My cell phone service dropped sporadically, but it didn’t matter because I was focused on the incredible scenery.
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Manzanita Lake located within Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Plumas County, which is larger than the state of Delaware, lies in the northern Sierra Nevada mountain range away from major highways. It has largely skirted the tourist boom that forever changed some of the region’s popular mountain towns.
Named after the Feather River (Rio de las Plumas), the county was established in 1854 during the gold rush and was rooted in mining, logging, and railway industries. William Berry, an official historian of the United States Ski Association, used the term “Lost Sierra” to describe the area, including the eastern portion of Plumas County, when he visited it in 1933.
The moniker has been used mainly for marketing purposes since then, but some might argue there’s a bit of truth to it. Located a two-hour drive from Lake Tahoe, Plumas County feels a world away. Its sparsely populated terrain is home to shimmering Lake Almanor, an outdoor haven with views of Lassen Peak; Plumas-Eureka State Park, which offers rich mining history; and Bucks Lake Wilderness, home to stunning wildflower meadows during summer.
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Mountain Bikers overlooking Crystal Lake and Mount Hough.
“Growing up in Plumas County, I took for granted the beauty and adventure around me until moving back in 2020,” said Zachary Gately, Plumas County grant manager. “Not many other places have four seasons of activities and events like Plumas County; swimming in the Feather River, hiking to a fire lookout, or community events such as the Taylorsville Light Parade (my favorite) all hold special places in my heart.”
Lassen Volcanic National Park, which spans the borders of Plumas, Tehama, Lassen, and Shasta counties, is California’s response to Yellowstone. The park encompasses a unique geological area with mud pots, fumaroles, and hot springs, which you can spot off the highway that traverses through the park. Though fairly remote, it’s a perfect alternative to more popular national parks, as it’s still off the radar for most travelers.
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The Plumas National Forest.
The park’s main highway links with California’s State Route 89, which passes through Quincy, a former mining boomtown and the county seat that boasts well-preserved Victorian buildings and historic Plumas County Courthouse. Quincy is a gateway to Plumas National Forest, a prime camping destination and home to unspoiled mountain vistas and diverse wildlife. Feather River Hot Springs is a jewel of the area, where you can soak in healing waters and enjoy the pristine mountain scenery.
When you’re ready to dig into local culture, head to downtown Quincy. At first glance, it seems like the kind of place you could easily pass on your way elsewhere. But spend a few hours in the area, and you’ll quickly realize the beating heart of Plumas County has many draws thanks to its laid-back atmosphere, family-owned restaurants, and welcoming locals. You won’t find chain stores and restaurants here, which adds to its rustic charm.
“I love and appreciate the nostalgia and tradition that is a huge part of visiting and living here,” said Katherine Sansone, Plumas County tourism marketing consultant.
From learning about the area’s indigenous roots at the Plumas County Museum to buying fresh produce at Quincy Farmers Market to enjoying concerts, there are many ways to enjoy the local flair.
“We are a county made up of small rural communities, each with their own history, personality, charm, and a bit of quirkiness. It’s the people in these communities that set the county apart. We are friendly and welcoming. There is always a chat that comes along with serving a customer or making a sale to a guest,” Sansone said.
For travelers who value places where mass tourism hasn’t reached, Quincy, and the surrounding Plumas County, offer more than a stopover. It’s a perfect place to recharge batteries and explore one of California’s best-kept secrets.
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