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Book a one-bedroom suite at Eva Resort for a saltwater pool, private chef experiences, and your very own kitchen.
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Immerse yourself in San Nicolas’ vibrant street art scene on a guided mural tour.
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Bask in the colors, music, and costumes of a Caribbean carnival celebration at the Carnival Euphoria Exhibition.
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Visit Baby Beach to avoid the crowds and snorkel with marine wildlife like sea turtles.
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Dine on jerk chicken wings and curry lobster at O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen.
When I first set foot in Aruba, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I knew the island had a great reputation, that the sand would be powder-soft and the waters shimmery turquoise, but I hadn’t anticipated uncovering its cultural core, or feeling such a strong personal connection.
Aruba has long been a destination for sunseekers in search of a serene island escape, but beyond its pristine beaches lies a place filled with vibrant culture, cuisine, and street art. San Nicolas is a reflection of the island’s rich heritage, influenced by the generations of Afro-Caribbean and South American immigrants who call it home. As someone of Caribbean descent (my mother is from Trinidad, my father is Puerto Rican), I immediately felt at home among the melting pot that defines this part of the island.
A powerful story lies in the colorful streets of San Nicolas. The island’s second-largest city—known for its past as a thriving port and industrial hub during Aruba’s oil boom, and later as the island’s red light district—is now at the epicenter of a cultural revival. Today, locals like Tito Bolivar, founder of a host of local art initiatives, including the Aruba Art Fair, are setting out to not only reclaim what the city once was, but also transform it into a celebration of Aruban culture. “San Nicolas used to be one of the most important places in Aruba, but it’s become a forgotten city. I wanted to bring light, art, and culture back,” said Bolivar. “I started with the Aruba Art Fair, which includes a program where artists paint murals in San Nicolas. The goal was to rebrand San Nicolas as the ‘street art capital’ of the Caribbean.”
Every street, with walls adorned in stunning murals, tells a story: tales of the many industrial revolutions the tiny island has undergone, of the cultural mosaic that makes up its people, and of the trials and triumphs that have been experienced along the way. It’s a story of reinvention, resilience, and a joie de vivre that feels so distinctly Aruban. Attractions like the Mural Tours, the Museum of Industry, and Baby Beach have brought a healthy interest to the area, but it still feels like a hidden gem. My instinct tells me San Nicolas is on the precipice of becoming the next hot spot. For now, the area remains an incredible cultural haven for those who crave an adventure beyond the glossy resorts.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Bucuti & Tara
The pool at Bucuti & Tara during sunset.
Secrets Baby Beach Aruba
Secrets Baby Beach Aruba is just a few minutes’ drive down the road from San Nicolas’ downtown center, along the serene Baby Beach. The all-inclusive, adults-only resort—part of the Hyatt Inclusive Collection—features 304 suites (some with ocean views and plunge pools), seven dining options, an infinity pool with Balinese-inspired daybeds, and a fully packed activities calendar.
Eva Resort
For a boutique stay that feels more like a private hideaway than the many cookie-cutter resorts dotting the island, head to Eva Resort in Savaneta. The intimate property offers just a handful of rooms and suites, each equipped with a full kitchen and cozy living room, so you can really lean into the whole home-away-from-home feel. The saltwater pool, private chef experiences, and VIP tours add an extra layer of luxury to any trip. Located a 15-minute drive from San Nicolas, it’s an ideal home base for venturing off the beaten path.
Joia Aruba by Iberostar
Although it’s about a 40-minute drive from San Nicolas, Joia Aruba by Iberostar is worth the trip. Nestled along the shores of Eagle Beach, lauded as one of the best beaches in the Caribbean, this stunning oasis boasts world-class amenities, including an 18-hole golf course (the only one on the island), a state-of-the-art wellness center, and gourmet dining options showcasing regional flavors.
Bucuti & Tara
Also set near the sunny coast of Eagle Beach, Bucuti & Tara is a dreamy adults-only escape with a focus on wellness, sustainability, and romance. It’s even been voted one of the best resorts in the Caribbean by Travel + Leisure readers.
Related: 18 Romantic Adults-only Hotels Around the World
Best Things to Do
Visit Aruba
A couple at the Museum of Industry.
Go on a street art tour.
One thing that immediately captivated me about San Nicolas was the vibrant murals lining the streets. Walking around was an immersive experience, each wall telling a different story of the island’s past and present. Bolivar selects street artists from around the globe to share their tales of the island’s culture with splashes of color. “I look for artists whose style aligns with Aruba being ‘One Happy Island,’” he said. He offers a few different Mural Tours of different lengths, but perhaps the most intriguing is The Whole Story & Workshop, a 6.5-hour option that includes art lessons with a local artist.
Visit some museums.
If you want to learn more about Aruba’s history and culture, visit at least one of the three museums in San Nicolas. The Museum of Industry offers a deep dive into the many industrial revolutions Aruba has undergone. The Carnival Euphoria Exhibition gives visitors a glimpse into the heritage of Aruba’s carnival season with costumes, memorabilia, and hands-on workshops with the community. And the Community Museum, which sits inside the restored Nicolaas Store, brings local history to life with recreated rooms and relics from the island’s early communities.
Snorkel with turtles.
While Palm Beach and Eagle Beach can get crowded (for good reason), Baby Beach is the ideal spot for something a bit more relaxed. Its curved, crescent-shaped shoreline keeps the waters calm and prime for snorkeling. There’s also a restaurant called Big Mama Grill for post-swim refreshments. During my time spent exploring the underwater world at Baby Beach, I was able to spot a colorful array of parrotfish and angelfish, and even swam with a few sea turtles—one of my island highlights.
Sample Caribbean flavors.
During the oil boom, thousands of Afro-Caribbean and South American laborers arrived to work in the refineries and shaped the area into the cultural melting pot it is today, and the cuisines of San Nicolas still tell that story. Aside from soaking up the art and history of the island, eating my way through the city is something that still lingers on my mind (and my taste buds).
Best Restaurants
Danielle Robles/Travel + Leisure
Lobster curry and outdoor seating at O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen.
O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen
Jamaica-born and Aruba-based chef Oneil Williams brings a blend of Caribbean flavors to San Nicolas at O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen. The restaurant lives up to its motto, “local and Caribbean cuisine, good to the last bite,” with mouthwatering delicacies like jerk chicken wings, oxtail stew, and, my personal favorite, curry lobster. Of all the amazing meals I had on the island (I had many), this was easily one of my favorites.
Kulture Cafe
Founded by husband-and-wife duo Nick and Kedesha Gordon, Kulture Cafe sits inside the Nicolaas Store and just below the Community Museum. Everything feels healthy and fresh here, from the signature salmon and avocado toast to the sage and lime juice quencher. Aside from tasty food, the cafe celebrates local culture. “Our goals include providing a welcoming space for residents and visitors to connect, hosting events that showcase local talent and arts, and promoting the rich cultural heritage of Aruba,” said owner Nick Gordon. Live music, art exhibitions, and culinary experiences that reflect the island’s traditions are just a few items on the cafe’s calendar.
Kamini’s Kitchen
Renowned among locals and visitors alike, Kamini’s Kitchen combines Aruban flavors with chef and owner Kamini Kurvink’s Trinidadian roots for some good old-fashioned Caribbean comfort food. The half-Trini in me was beyond thrilled to find staples like doubles, roti, and chana and potato curry on the menu, just like my grandmother made them.
Dessalines Haitian Caribbean Cuisine
Setting out to bring the flavors of his childhood to the forefront of the Aruban food scene, chef Marc-Alain Arcelin (a.k.a. chef Makaveli) founded Dessalines Haitian Caribbean Cuisine. On the menu, you’ll find plates like pork belly pineapple ceviche and his take on Haitian spaghetti, a traditional breakfast dish made with turkey sausage, smoked herring, a hard-boiled egg, fresh tomatoes, and red peppers.
Best Time to Visit
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Aerial view of Baby Beach.
San Nicolas is best enjoyed by day, when colorful murals, galleries, and cafes bring the area to life. As the city continues to evolve from its red light district roots, it’s still finding its footing, making morning and afternoon the ideal times to experience it at its most vibrant.
Since Aruba is not a part of the hurricane belt, any time of year is a good time to visit. The temperature typically sits in the low to mid-80s year-round, with occasional rain between October and January. One thing that surprised me was how windy the island was during my visit, and according to locals, May is typically one of the windiest months.
If you want to experience Aruban culture in San Nicolas up close, come the first week of September, when ArtWeek Aruba kicks off. The week culminates with the three-day Aruba Art Fair, where the community comes together with live performances, art installations, food trucks, and more.
How to Get There
Visit Aruba
A colorful mosaic on the streets of San Nicolas, Aruba.
Visitors fly into Queen Beatrix International Airport (AUA), which is a direct flight from many major U.S. cities, especially on the East Coast, as well as other international airports around the world. Visas are not required for U.S. citizens, but visitors need to fill out the Embarkation and Disembarkation (ED) card online and pay a $20 sustainability fee.
To get to San Nicolas from the airport, travelers can rent a car (my personal preference) or take a taxi. It’s about a 25- to 30-minute drive along the coast.
How to Get Around
Depending on where you’re staying on the island, you can rent a car from the airport, find a local rental, or take a taxi to San Nicolas. Since it’s a bit off the beaten path and not particularly close to most hotels, I recommend renting a car so you can explore the island at your leisure. Driving in Aruba is pretty straightforward, and traffic is fairly calm.
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