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This Charming Western Town Is Right Out of a Storybook—With European-inspired Architecture and Incredible Mountain Views


Vail, Colorado

  • Stay at Sonnenalp Hotel, a cozy European-esque getaway in the heart of Vail Village.

  • Spend a day skiing or boarding at Vail Ski Resort; the mountain is known for its slopes that cater to all skill levels.

  • Grab an outdoor table (under a heat lamp) and order the German pretzel and pork schnitzel at Alpenrose Vail.

  • Shop around the pedestrian-friendly Vail Village for souvenirs, mountain gear, and local art.

  • Visit in late September or early October to see the aspen trees in all their golden glory.

When it comes to mountain towns out West, I’m picky. I value both authenticity and luxury—which means you’ll frequently find me in Jackson Hole, Wyoming—and I prefer spending time in places that are relatively easy to explore on foot. I also give points to destinations with independent coffee shops, charming boutiques, and a decent airport. Vail, Colorado, a Bavarian-inspired town known for its large ski resort, nails each category.

While some travelers may initially question its genuineness—it is a planned resort town, after all—there are a few aspects of life in this pocket of Colorado, located 100 miles west of Denver, that feel inherent to its DNA. A shared desire to spend every day outside, whether it’s on skis, on horseback, or on your own two feet exploring the car-free streets of Vail Village, is probably at the top of that list.

“Vail Village is where it all started… The original vision of creating a ski village, similar to what our founders envisioned from their experiences in Europe—particularly while serving as 10th Mountain soldiers—formed the foundation of a car-free, walkable street base village,” explains Dave Chapin, the proprietor of Vendetta’s Restaurant and a member of the Vail Town Council. Here, you’ll find chalet-style buildings with detailed wood carvings and flower-filled window boxes.

Over time, as skiing became a more popular sport in the ‘60s and ‘70s, Vail expanded; more lifts, more lodging options, and another part of town, Lionshead Village, ensued. Today, Vail continues to be a top winter and summer getaway, but it’s also filled with opportunities that make it a true year-round destination. Here’s how to plan a trip.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Four Seasons Hotels

A guest room in the Four Seasons Hotel Vail.

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail

Travelers who come to Vail have grown to expect top-tier everything—and that includes hospitality experiences. The Four Seasons brand has had an outpost in the mountain town since 2010, and the 110-key (not counting the 23 private residences and six Residence Club vacation condominiums) property is certainly one of the best in the area. It’s an especially amazing choice in the winter; a relatively new three-story chalet and the ski concierge team make for a seamless process of getting to and from the slopes.

The Sonnenalp

Named as one of the top resorts in Colorado in this year’s World’s Best Awards, the Sonnenalp Hotel is a wholly original property that marries privacy with convenience. Tucked away in Vail Village, the hotel houses 112 suites and 15 rooms, and each suite comes with a gas-log fireplace and custom-made Bavarian furniture. If you ignore the delightful views of either the village or Gore Creek, you could easily feel as if you’re taking a European escape (albeit the luxurious bathrooms in each suite are significantly bigger than the ones in any quaint village inn across the pond).

The Hythe, a Luxury Collection Resort, Vail

Anyone looking to spend as much time as possible on the mountain will gravitate toward The Hythe, a Luxury Collection Resort, Vail. Featured on the It List in 2022, the spacious (more than 300 rooms and suites) property sits in Lionshead Village, steps from the Eagle Bahn Gondola. Although its ski access may be its largest selling point, its relaxation-centered amenities—an all-seasons pool and the Well & Being Spa, outfitted with a Himalayan salt lounge—are a close second.

Best Things to Do

Amanda Blackard/Travel + Leisure

Skiers in Vail, Colorado.

Explore the pedestrian village.

Upon arrival in Vail, you’ll want to get your bearings. The best way to do so is by walking along the cobblestoned streets of Vail Village, which looks like it came straight out of a European storybook. “[The streets are] heated in the winter, so no snow accumulation, and [it’s] safe to walk and ride bikes in the summer. No traffic to worry about,” says Matt Morgan, the owner of Sweet Basil and Mountain Standard. “We also have an amazing river that runs straight through the village. Guests and locals have easy access to tube, fly fish, or just hang by the river.”

Ski the mountain.

Epic Pass or regular lift ticket in hand, head up to Vail Mountain Resort to get your fill of your favorite high-altitude, heart-pumping activity. “Our ski mountain, I believe, is what sets us apart from our peer mountain resorts,” says Chapin, noting the incredible “trail and lift network, fun base villages with many food and retail opportunities, mountain preparation (grooming, terrain access, unparalleled safety protocols), weather, and consistent quality and quantity of snow.” After you’ve completed your last run, check out the Colorado Snowsports Museum. “It’s a treasure trove of the history of skiing and the evolution of the sport,” he adds.

Hike with llamas.

Hiking is a popular pastime in Vail, but you can also take it to another level by booking a llama hike with Paragon Guides. Available June through September, the experience involves leading a patient, gentle llama, your “backcountry sherpa,” along a trail; they’ll carry your camping supplies or the necessary items for a picnic lunch.

Go horseback riding.

One of the best ways to take in the Gore and Sawatch mountain ranges is by getting on horseback. Just outside of Vail Village, Vail Stables offers one- to two-hour seasonal trail rides, taking riders up steep trails, through wildflower meadows, and into forests filled with quaking aspen trees and lodgepole pines. Plenty of photo ops included.

Visit the Betty Ford Gardens.

“I always encourage guests in the summer to visit our world-renowned Betty Ford Alpine Gardens,” says Chapin. “They have some great educational programming and feature some flowers and plants that are unique to the high alpine environment.” Billed as the world’s highest botanical gardens, it’s a destination where you can connect with nature through themed areas, water features, and all manner of alpine plants and wildflowers.

Best Shopping

Kristina Blokhin/Adobe Stock

Retail stores in Vail.

Gorsuch, Pepi Sports, and Axel’s

“We have so many great locally owned retail shops that I often will encounter guests who just come to shop,” says Chapin, who recommends Gorsuch (as well as Pepi Sports). “They have been locally owned since the ‘60s and offer world-class couture as well as simple souvenirs.” Morgan adds one more to that family-owned list: Axel’s.

The Golden Bear

There’s no shortage of shopping in Vail Village, but if you want something truly special and representative of your time in this mountain town, make your way to The Golden Bear. Celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2025, the jewelry store is known for its eponymous symbol, which should always be worn facing your heart (as a necklace) or “kissing your cheeks” (as earrings).

Alpine Kind, Perch, and Luca Bruno

If you’re hunting for women’s clothing, there are a few stores to add to your itinerary. “A newer store my wife loves is Alpine Kind,” says Morgan. Along with your classic mountain apparel, the store has a hat bar, where you can design your very own Western get-up. Perch carries luxury brands like Mackage and Missoni, and Luca Bruno describes its retail items as “Italian quality meets mountain chic.”

Best Restaurants

Joshua Thoma/Alpenrose

Interior dining room at Alpenrose.

Mountain Standard

Overlooking Gore Creek, Mountain Standard comes recommended by Chapin. The menu features warm, hearty favorites like buttermilk sea salt biscuits, smoked trout and potato fritters, and rotisserie piri piri chicken. But Morgan, the owner of the establishment, recommends starting with the bone marrow and pimento cheese appetizers.

Alpenrose Vail

To fully embrace the town’s Bavarian heritage, venture over to Alpenrose Vail, a local classic since 1974. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you spot twinkly lights, flowers, and outdoor tables covered with beer steins and soft pretzels.

El Segundo

For margaritas, tacos, and views of Gore Creek, there’s El Segundo. After a half-day hike along Lost Lake Trail or something more strenuous, like Upper Piney River Falls, take a seat at El Segundo. Just come hungry; it’s all too easy to fill up on the chips and queso blanco before diving into 24-hour carnitas tacos or the smothered chicken burrito.

The Little Diner

Another recommendation from Chapin, The Little Diner is a Vail staple. Breakfast is served all day long, and the full-service diner has all of the classics—everything from breakfast burritos and huevos rancheros to biscuits and gravy and pancakes.

Sweet Basil

Recognized by the Michelin Guide, Sweet Basil is a fine dining favorite among both locals and visitors. Make a reservation if you want to enjoy entrees like five-spice duck tacos, roasted lamb saddle, or dungeness crab bucatini. Morgan suggests starting with the whipped feta appetizer and rounding out your meal with the sticky toffee pudding.

Best Time to Visit

Perry Spring/Getty Images

Snow capped mountains near Vail, Colorado.

“I’ve been living and working in Vail for 38 years, and every season has its charms,” says Morgan. “Summer is packed with festivals and concerts [and] people playing in the river in the village—kayaking, tubing, and fishing. The winter is, of course, filled with skiing, après-skiing, and lots of pop-up fun.” But, he adds, his personal favorite time of the year is the fall. “The aspens are in bloom, it’s less busy, more relaxed, and stunningly beautiful,” he says. If you’re budget-conscious, try to time your visit outside of peak ski season (mid-December through March).

How to Get There

Adventure_Photo/Getty Images

Aerial view of Vail.

If you’re flying to Vail, you have two options. You can either arrive via Denver International Airport (DEN) or Vail’s Eagle County Regional Airport (EGE). The latter is only 40 minutes from Vail Village and served year-round by United and American Airlines. From December through March, Alaska Airlines and Delta offer direct routes to and from a handful of major cities across the U.S., including Seattle, Atlanta, and New York. You can prebook a car to take you from the airport to your final destination with services like Epic Limo; Uber and Lyft are also available.

DEN, on the other hand, is a little over two hours from Vail, although the drive can be significantly more time-consuming depending on traffic. Renting a car to cover the final leg of your journey is an option, but you can also book a transfer shuttle with Epic Mountain Express.

How to Get Around

krblokhin/Getty Images

Directional signs in Vail, Colorado.

Vail was designed to be walkable, so you don’t technically need your own car. The 15-mile-long Vail Recreation Path is open to pedestrians and bikers, and it’s an easy way to get in your steps, see the area, and immerse yourself in nature. Vail also has a free public transportation system. Keep an eye out for the LED signs in Vail Village, Lionshead, and at select bus stops; these will show the predicted arrival times.

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