Slovenia is one of Europe’s best kept secrets — a charming, beautiful country that combines the best of Mediterranean and Eastern European vibes, while somehow remaining relatively uncrowded and off the beaten track. It is sandwiched between Italy, Austria, Croatia, and Hungary, and combines the best aspects of each. The perfect blend of elegant old-world charm, stunning mountainous landscapes, vibrant and exciting towns, and a rich history makes this lesser-visited gem one of the best nations to visit on a trip to Europe.
Most first-time travelers to Slovenia head to the romantic city of Ljubljana, often described as Venice without the crowds, or to the fairytale beauty of Lake Bled and the Slovenian Alps. But one of Slovenia’s most delightful treasures is actually found at the other end of the country, tucked away in the eastern corner near Croatia. Ptuj is Slovenia’s oldest town, a stunningly cultural destination with history and tradition etched into every corner, and it is one of the loveliest spots in the country to visit.
Ptuj is located in the traditional region of Styria in the east of Slovenia, on the banks of the River Drava and overlooking Lake Ptuj. It is 20 miles from Maribor, the nearest major city, and about 80 miles from the capital, Ljubljana. Maribor has a small international airport serving routes across Europe, and is just 20 minutes drive away, while Ljubljana International Airport offers a larger variety of destinations, and can be reached by car in about 1 hour 45 minutes.
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Ptuj is a town filled with history
Catholic church tower in the center of the medieval city of Ptuj – Jose Miguel Sanchez/Shutterstock
Ptuj has an extraordinarily long history. There is evidence of there being a settlement here as far back as the Stone Age, and the town has been an important settlement since before the Romans arrived in 1 BCE. The city developed as a fortified town under the Romans, and while it was conquered by a variety of invaders, including Huns, Avars, and Franks throughout the Middle Ages, it was an important and vibrant town by the 13th century. The medieval architecture of the Old Town is extremely well-preserved and one of the main attractions of Ptuj.
The highlights are the mid-12th-century castle, looming from its hillside location overlooking the town and the river, and the beautiful parish church of St. George, originally from the same period and rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 15th century. The picturesque Minorite monastery is well worth exploring, thanks to its astonishing historic library containing over 5,000 ancient tomes, while the beautiful Dominican monastery has now been restored and renovated as a museum and cultural center.
Most of the evidence of Roman Ptuj (Poetovio) has long since vanished, but fans of classical antiquity can enjoy the Orpheus Monument which stands in the town’s Central Square, in front of the imposing town tower. The monument was originally a grave marker, built to remember Marcus Valerius Verus, a Roman mayor of the town. It is the largest remaining Roman monument in Slovenia, designed with bas-reliefs of the ancient Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, and was used as a pillory for punishing criminals during the Middle Ages.
Springtime hedonism, wine, and natural spa treatments
People in traditional Kurent costume – Tuul & Bruno Morandi/Getty Images
Ptuj’s charm isn’t just about ancient history, and this culturally exciting diamond of a town boasts plenty to entertain and delight in the here and now. Ptuj’s cultural life hinges around the Kurent Carnival, a decadent 10-day-long spring celebration based on an ancient Slavic pagan festival for the god of hedonism. The city comes alive with parades, events, and traditional costumes, as townfolk don masks, feathers, horns, and sheepskins, and march from door to door, shaking bells and hitting sticks to drive away winter and welcome the spring. If you aren’t able to visit in the springtime, Ptuj Castle has a collection of Kurent masks, or take a Kurent workshop in nearby Spuhlja.
Slovenia has an underrated and extremely exciting wine scene, and Ptuj is the home of the oldest wine cellar in the country. Ptuj Wine Cellar has been storing wine from vineyards in the Haloze and Slovenske Gorice hills for over 700 years, and is a great place to visit to get a sense of the history of winemaking in Slovenia. The cellar offers a guided tour, which includes tastings and a journey through their wine archive, including century-old wines, ancient vines, and enormous wooden barrels. Ptuj also boasts natural thermal waters and has been a spa town since Roman times. A visit to Terme Ptuj is a must for all travelers, with its charming combination of contemporary wellness offerings and Imperial Roman decor.
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