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I’ve Traveled California for 20 Years and This Is One of Its Best Parks—With 140,000 Acres of the World’s Tallest Trees


Redwood National and State Parks

  • Located just south of the California-Oregon state line, Redwood National and State Parks encompass almost 140,000 acres of old-growth redwood forests, beaches, and prairies.

  • The parks’ one-of-a-kind ecology supports countless native animal species, including banana slugs and herds of Roosevelt elk.

  • Hike beneath the giants at Stout Memorial Grove and Lady Bird Johnson Grove, both of which have short, strollable trails.

  • Spend your nights among the redwoods at one of the parks’ four developed campgrounds, or book a stay just outside of the parks at Elk Meadow Cabins.

  • Paddle down the Smith River through the parklands on a ranger-guided kayaking tour, available seasonally.

As anyone who’s spent time around California redwoods can attest, whether it’s your first time or your 40th time seeing these towering trees, there’s something about them that’s nothing short of breathtaking. That’s all the more true at Redwood National and State Parks, a sprawling amalgamation of federally and state-protected wildlands just south of the California-Oregon border.

You could easily spend days doing nothing but meandering through the trails beneath these behemoths, which can live for thousands of years, grow hundreds of feet tall, and reach up to 20 feet in diameter. And that’s just the start—Redwood National and State Parks also encompass idyllic, grassy meadows grazed by herds of Roosevelt elk, undeveloped beaches, and rivers and streams with glass-clear water. The parks are even magical on a small scale, with banana slugs, verdant ferns, and moss peppered throughout the forest floor.

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“A lot of people come here for the trees,” says Bogart Levesque, the general manager for the outfitter-lodging combination Redwood Adventures and Elk Meadow Cabins. “It’s on their bucket list to see the giant redwoods, but we do have some other great things here. Fern Canyon is a popular spot to check out; the beaches are really nice. There’s stuff besides the trees as well.”

The park’s unique status as a combination of both national and state parks gives visitors access to tens of thousands more acres of the natural world. “There’s something extraordinary about standing beneath a redwood tree and realizing how small you are—and how big and beautiful the world can be,” says Cindy Vosburg, the executive director for the Del Norte County Visitors Bureau and Crescent City-Del Norte Chamber of Commerce. “Here, our skyscrapers are the redwood trees, our nightlife is the stars, and nature outnumbers people. You have a place where you can slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect.”

Whether you’re there to marvel at the redwoods, hunt for banana slugs, or have a beach day, NorCal-style, here’s everything you need to know before planning a visit to Redwood National and State Parks.

Know Before You Go

A scenic forest scape in Redwood National and State Parks.Credit: Jon Mattrisch/Travel + Leisure

A scenic forest scape in Redwood National and State Parks.
Credit: Jon Mattrisch/Travel + Leisure

Redwood National and State Parks span almost 140,000 acres, or roughly 217 square miles. There’s no entry fee for the national park areas, so visitors can venture in and out of those at their leisure. However, California State Parks charges an $8 vehicle day-use fee to enter Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park. An America the Beautiful or California State Parks annual pass will also get you in.

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Considering that Redwood National and State Parks cover such a large area, you should ideally plan a multiday trip. Many destinations in the park are tricky to reach, so you’ll need some extra time to get around. “This is a place to enjoy at a slower pace, with plenty of room for unexpected stops and beautiful discoveries,” says Vosburg. “Bring layers and a rain jacket, because coastal weather can change, and wear comfortable shoes even if you aren’t planning a hike.”

Speaking of hikes—since the Fern Canyon trail has become so popular in recent years, a parking permit is required for the Gold Bluffs Beach area (where the trailhead is located) between May 15 and September 15. You can reserve your permit in advance through the Redwood Parks Conservancy. Hikers also have to get permits year-round for the Tall Trees Grove, a remote stand of redwoods with a locked gate to prevent overcrowding.

While you’re planning, you should also plot out your food and fuel stops in nearby California towns, like Crescent City, Klamath, and Trinidad, before you enter the parklands. There are little to no amenities within the parks themselves—all the better to take in the peace and quiet. “Before you arrive, check the parks’ official information for current road conditions, closures, and any reservation or permit requirements,” says Vosburg. “Give wildlife plenty of space, and help us care for this special place by leaving it as beautiful as you found it.”

Best Things to Do

A road lined with Redwood Trees.Credit: Jon Mattrisch/Travel + Leisure

A road lined with Redwood Trees.
Credit: Jon Mattrisch/Travel + Leisure

Picnic on the Beach

There are no restaurants within Redwood National and State Parks, giving you the perfect excuse to plan a truly al fresco meal. Picnic grounds and tables are scattered all over the parklands, but if you want to eat with views of the Pacific, pack a lunch to Gold Bluffs Beach or Redwood Creek/Freshwater Beach Day Use Area. Since the beaches aren’t really warm enough to swim or sunbathe, picnicking allows you to soak up the coastal setting without getting in the water.

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“Sometimes the best activity is simply finding a quiet place to sit and listen,” Vosburg notes. “The birds, ocean, and breeze through the trees provide a pretty wonderful soundtrack.”

Take a Canoe or Kayaking Tour

To see Redwood National and State Parks from the water, sign up for a canoe or kayaking tour. Park rangers lead seasonal, guided kayaking trips on inflatable watercraft down the Smith River, California’s largest free-flowing river system. Just outside of the park in the town of Klamath, the Yurok Tribe also hosts canoeing expeditions down the Klamath River in traditional, redwood dugout canoes.

Take a Scenic Drive

Redwood National and State Parks have several gorgeous drives for anyone who wants to explore the parklands by car. “I love a leisurely scenic drive through the redwoods,” says Vosburg. “You don’t have to hike for miles to experience the wonder of these magnificent trees.”

Arguably the park’s best-known drive, Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway is a paved, 10-mile alternative to U.S. 101, passing through the redwood groves between Orick, California, and Klamath. “It’s a great bypass for the highway, so definitely take that instead of doing that stretch of Highway 101,” says Levesque.

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Also near the town of Orick, Bald Hills Road runs a little over 30 miles from east to west, passing expansive meadows and historic ranches along the way. And on the park’s northern end, the unpaved, narrow Howland Hill Road winds 10 miles between Crescent City and Hiouchi, a former stagecoach route turned sightseeing haven.

Bike Around the Park

Biking or e-biking gives you enough time to admire the redwoods at your own pace. Most of the park’s paved and dirt roads are open to cyclists, though a few hiking trails also permit biking, like the Lost Man Creek: Hike and Bike Trail. If you’d rather leave the planning to the pros, Redwood Adventures and other local guiding companies take visitors on e-bike tours down park-approved routes.

Best Hikes

Trillium falls in Redwood National park.Credit: James/Adobe Stock

Trillium falls in Redwood National park.
Credit: James/Adobe Stock

Fern Canyon Loop Trail

Perhaps the most iconic hike in Redwood National and State Parks, the Fern Canyon Loop Trail is a short, flat stroll through a lush river gorge. Ferns and mosses carpet the towering canyon walls, creating a dense carpet of vegetation over the trail. Just remember to snag that parking permit and pay the day-use fee (or bring an annual pass) to get into Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. And, since the hike is located at the end of an extremely rough road, an all-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicle is recommended.

Stout Memorial Grove

Located off Howland Hill Road in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, the Stout Memorial Grove Trail covers a lot of scenery in a short distance. The trail is about half a mile in length, passing beneath a dense, old-growth stand of redwood trees. Many of the trees here reach more than 300 feet in height, creating an impressive canopy high above the trail.

Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail

The Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail is about 1.5 miles long and roughly 1,200 feet above sea level. Hikers walk through both Douglas fir and redwood groves, and the trail is often blanketed in a dense layer of fog thanks to its higher elevation.

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To extend your trek, add the three-mile Berry Glen Trail to your itinerary. “I really like the Berry Glen Trail, which is the back way into Lady Bird Johnson Grove,” says Levesque. “That’s one of the few trails with some elevation, so it starts off with some switchbacks. If you’re looking for a more strenuous hike, I always recommend that one.”

Trillium Falls Trail

The short, family-friendly Trillium Falls Trail climbs about 200 feet to reach its namesake waterfall, passing by maples, redwoods, and, yes, trilliums along the way. Though the falls are located just half a mile into the trail, you can continue over a 2.7-mile loop to see more of the falls’ wild surroundings and an old sawmill site, a remnant of the region’s logging heyday.

Best Places to Stay

Camping in a tent at Redwood National Park.Credit: HadelProductions/Getty Images

Camping in a tent at Redwood National Park.
Credit: HadelProductions/Getty Images

Jedediah Smith Campground

Open year-round, the campground at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park has 89 tent sites with picnic tables, fire rings, and metal “bear boxes” to keep critters out of your food. Some of the sites face the calm waters of the Smith River, if you need a little natural white noise for a good night’s sleep. There are also four ADA-compliant cabins available for rent.

Mill Creek Campground

The largest campground in Redwood National and State Parks, Mill Creek Campground has 145 campsites, including six ADA-compliant spots. The campground is open from mid-May to early October and has seasonal flush toilets and coin-operated hot showers, with several trailheads located conveniently nearby. Pets are permitted in the campground on a leash, but not on the trails.

Gold Bluffs Beach Campground

This small campground has only 26 sites and is located in one of the park’s most-visited destinations, with flush toilets and free, solar-powered showers. As popular and beautiful as Gold Bluffs Beach may be, don’t underestimate it—the area is seriously rugged. Trailers are prohibited on the narrow, winding road to the campground, and while RVs are allowed, none of the sites have electrical or water hookups.

Elk Prairie Campground

Located off Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, the Elk Prairie Campground has 75 sites and four ADA-compliant rental cabins. No matter where you set up your tent, you’ll be in a prime position to see herds of Roosevelt elk in the meadows nearby. As for creature comforts, campers can expect flush toilets and free hot showers, and the campground is also within walking distance of the Prairie Creek Visitor Center, where you can pick up souvenirs and learn more about the parklands.

Hotels and Lodges Outside of the Park

Since there are no lodges within Redwood National and State Parks, those seeking a hotel stay will have to look outside of the park’s boundaries. To name just a few of the many local lodgings, Elk Meadow Cabins is situated in a tranquil, 27-acre meadow near the town of Orick, with full kitchens and porches with grills (plus easy access to tours with Redwood Adventures). Not far away in the town of Klamath, The Historic Requa Inn is a bed and breakfast that has 14 uniquely decorated rooms and two separate cottages, right on the banks of the Klamath River. And Roosevelt Base Camp is set inside a fully renovated motel from the 1950s and has just six vintage-inspired rooms, giving guests a cozy, retro road trip atmosphere.

Places to Eat

A street view of restaurants in Crescent City, California.Credit: Strekoza2/Getty Images

A street view of restaurants in Crescent City, California.
Credit: Strekoza2/Getty Images

As mentioned earlier, there are no restaurants within the park boundaries. Fortunately, nearby towns like Crescent City and Trinidad have an assortment of solid restaurants, where you can grab a picnic or refuel after a day of hiking, surrounded by friendly locals. “Make time to explore our coastal community, enjoy a meal, and meet the people who call this beautiful place home,” says Vosburg. “We’re proud to share it with you.”

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In Crescent City, Good Harvest Cafe serves three meals a day, with a menu that focuses on American classics like clam chowder, burgers, and pastas. You can also cap off your day at SeaQuake brewery, sipping a pint or two of locally brewed beer—the Battery Point Blonde Ale and the Wicked Aunt Tammy Double IPA are popular picks, but SeaQuake also has a selection of nonalcoholic drinks as well as kombucha.

Over in Trinidad, chow down at Trinidad Bay Eatery & Galley, a longstanding institution. Try the spicy cioppino, made with crab, shrimp, and mussels, or the clam chowder, made using a 40-year-old recipe. Also in Trinidad, The Lighthouse Grill dishes up classics like hamburgers and fish and chips, but there are also a few surprises, like the nut burger, concocted from cashews and pecans, and the restaurant’s famous mashed potato cone: a savory waffle cone stacked with mashed potatoes, gravy, and meat.

Read the original article on Travel & Leisure



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