I’ve Hiked 3,000 Miles Across the U.S., and This Sierra Nevada Trail Stands Out—With Waterfalls and Hot Springs

Key Points

• The Fish Creek Trail is a nearly 24-mile out-and-back hike that winds through California’s Ansel Adams Wilderness and John Muir Wilderness to Iva Bell Hot Springs.

• Along the route, hikers pass Rainbow Falls, Fish Creek, granite peaks, forested landscapes, and panoramic Sierra Nevada views before reaching the natural soaking pools.

• The strenuous trail is best completed as an overnight backpacking trip, requiring permits, bear cans for camping, and careful preparation for changing mountain conditions.

Near Mammoth Lakes in California’s Sierra Nevada, the Fish Creek Trail winds through the deep forests of the Ansel Adams Wilderness and John Muir Wilderness. The route passes the rushing blue waters of its namesake stream, climbs up steep mountain slopes, and skirts the bases of imposing, jagged stone peaks.

With 3,887 feet of elevation gain, rocky switchbacks, and lengthy downhill sections, this challenging hike isn’t exactly for the faint of heart. In fact, it’s best done over multiple days, so you’ll have plenty of time to slow down and take everything in. Trust me—I’ve hiked 3,000 miles across the U.S., including the Appalachian Trail, and this hike is well worth the time and effort, with gorgeous mountain and waterfall views.

Stick with it for a little under 12 miles, and you’ll end up at Iva Bell Hot Springs, a collection of natural rocky pools perfect for soothing those tired hiking muscles. Even before you get there, the scenery you’ll pass is nothing short of stunning—including Rainbow Falls only about a mile into the hike.

Here’s what you need to know before hiking the Fish Creek Trail.

The Route

You can start the Fish Creek Trail from either Red’s Meadow Resort & Pack Station or the Rainbow Falls Trailhead, both in the Devils Postpile National Monument area. After about a mile, you’ll reach Rainbow Falls, a 101-foot-tall cascade visible via a short detour from the path. It might be tough to tear yourself away from the thundering falls, but keep going down the trail, past open granite slabs and dense swaths of ferns. You’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada crest and Fish Creek, which carves past striking granite boulders. Anglers often stop to cast a line for trout in the shallows, and you can dip your feet in to cool off on hot days.

After a few more miles of uphill hiking, you’re almost there. Watch for wooden signs marking a turn in the Fish Creek Trail, and you’ll arrive at Iva Bell Hot Springs before you know it. Several stone-lined pools, filled with naturally warm, clear waters, dot the hillside. And since the hike’s length and permit requirements (more on those shortly) typically keep crowds away from the springs, you might just get your pick of the pools.

Sit and soak a while, or pitch a tent on one of the many comfortable backcountry campsites that surround the springs. Just don’t rush back to your car—by the end of this hike, you will have earned yourself a good, long rest.

What to Know Before You Go

The hike to Iva Bell Hot Springs calls for a decent amount of dedication and at least a little trail navigation know-how to prevent wrong turns. Sturdy hiking boots and trekking poles are must-haves, and make sure to pack your swimsuit, bug spray, and sunscreen, plus fishing supplies if you plan on trying your luck at Fish Creek.

Whether or not you plan to stay the night out in the woods, always follow Leave No Trace principles. Whatever you pack in, you’ll have to bring back out with you. For those who are staying overnight, note that using bear-proof, hard-sided food containers known as bear cans—or following strict rules for hanging your food from a tree trunk—is required for the backcountry in the John Muir Wilderness.

Backcountry permits are also required for overnight stays. Experienced, exceptionally strong hikers may be able to blitz the trail, see the hot springs, and make it back to their cars in one day. Everyone else will need to snag a permit for the Fish Creek Trail, available via Recreation.gov.

Best Time to Visit

As with much of the Sierra Nevada, the Fish Creek Trail is more easily accessible during the warmer months of the year. The road to the trailhead closes during winter, though you might be able to make it to the Devils Postpile National Monument area during late fall and early spring as long as the route is clear of snow.

Summertime visitors should prepare for fickle weather that can change on a moment’s notice. Intense, late afternoon thunderstorms are common, especially in July and August, so try to get an early start on the trail.

How to Get There

The town of Mammoth Lakes is located off California’s Highway 395, a scenic route that runs 557 miles north to south through the state’s interior. Depending on where you’re coming from, you’ll take either 395 North or 395 South to reach CA-203, which will lead you west to Mammoth Lakes and the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area.

During the summer, a shuttle runs from the Mammoth Mountain Main Lodge to Devils Postpile and Reds Meadow. Riding the shuttle is mandatory between the hours of 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. in the peak summer months, though early birds and late-night arrivals can drive down Reds Meadow Road to park right at either of the Fish Creek trailheads.

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