I Skipped the Alps and Traveled to Dalarna, Sweden Instead — And It Was So Much Better

Most people picture the Alps when they think of a European winter getaway. But there’s a quieter, friendlier, and more affordable option… a place where locals learn to ski, huskies can pick you up at the airport, and dinner tastes like fine dining wrapped in a fairy tale.

Welcome to Dalarna, Sweden’s best-kept winter secret.

If you read my recent piece from Småland, you might remember The Swedish Prescription. This is Sweden’s real-life initiative that encourages people to spend more time in nature for better health and well-being. Yes, you can actually be prescribed time in Sweden.

Dalarna is where that idea meets snow. It has the same “slow down and breathe” spirit, just with skis, dog sleds, saunas, and a pace that manages to be both active and deeply relaxing.

You can get into the full Prescription concept in my Småland coverage, but for now, here’s what that philosophy looks like in the heart of a Swedish winter.

Arriving in Dalarna

Dalarna’s story starts before you even hit the slopes. The Scandinavian Mountains Airport is minutes, not hours, from Sälen’s ski areas.

And here’s the fun part: you can skip the taxi and get picked up by a dog sled or snowmobile. That’s not a gimmick… It’s a real transfer option. Welcome to Dalarna!

Skiing in Dalarna

Now, Dalarna is actually where many Swedes learn to ski, and once you’re here, it’s easy to see why. The slopes are welcoming, the prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere couldn’t be more relaxed.

Coming from the Midwest in the U.S., even I was amazed by how kind and patient people were on the slopes. It was wonderful!

Now, here are several ski areas within easy reach of Sälen; these are just a few I personally visited, each with its own personality.

Hundfjället & Tandådalen are connected, and that’s where I learned to ski (see pic below). It’s ideal for beginners — wide runs, great instructors, and a really friendly vibe.

Kläppen is a local favorite with Sweden’s first privately built gondola and one of the country’s best snow parks. The gondola ride alone is worth it for the views, and the on-mountain restaurant is perfect for warming up between runs.

Stöten is gorgeous and known for its long, scenic runs and relaxed atmosphere. It’s also great for families. You’ll see little ones learning to ski alongside the resort mascot, which is adorable.

Getting between the ski areas is easy, too. There’s a Ski bus that runs regularly between the main resorts, and it’s included if you have a valid ski pass

Dog Sledding – Pure Joy on Snow

But if you do one activity here, make it dog sledding. I went with Fjälläventyr… and loved it!

You can hear the dogs before you see them, yelping, howling, tails spinning like helicopter blades. They live for this.

Before we set off, my guide gave me a crash course on driving the sled, how to brake, how to lean, and how not to fall off. Then we were off, gliding through snow-covered pines and open plains. It was so fun!

When we stopped for fika, the dogs collapsed into the snow, happy and content, just like the rest of us. I couldn’t stop smiling — easily one of my favorite memories from the trip.

Snowmobiling in Dalarna

But you don’t have to stick to skis or sleds, either.

Snowmobiling is a huge part of life here, with hundreds of kilometers of marked trails that weave through the forests, over frozen lakes, and between mountain villages.

Visitors can rent snowmobiles or join guided tours that make it easy and safe to explore the area. You can choose everything from short one-hour tours to multi-day tours covering numerous kilometres.

Ice Fishing

If you prefer something slower, ice fishing in Dalarna is perfect. It’s not about catching dinner (though you can), it’s about slowing down and soaking in the silence.

I joined a local guide from Explore Sälen, who handled all the details: drilling the holes, setting up chairs and a heated tent, and even bringing fresh pastries and coffee. We fished for char and trout, and while I can’t brag about my catch, sitting on a frozen lake surrounded by beautiful scenery was something special.

Snowshoeing

But one of my favorite ways to explore Dalarna is snowshoeing, especially the gastronomy walk with Explore Sälen.

It’s part hike, and part picnic, where you move through snowy forests, stopping at small clearings and huts where guides serve local cheeses, sausages, and bread. Every stop comes with a story about the land, the food, and the people who make it.

It’s the perfect activity if you want to stay active but not rushed. You’re outside, moving, breathing, and eating. It’s the Swedish prescription in action!

Food That Actually Means Something

And speaking of food…I came to Dalarna for the adventure, but I stayed for the meals!

Nearly everything you eat here tells a story about where it came from. And when I say I had some of the best food of my life here, despite eating at Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago, Tokyo, and beyond, I’m not exaggerating.

At Restaurant Elgen inside Olarsgården, I tried the freshest elk carpaccio I’ll probably ever have… so fresh the neighbor had hunted it earlier that day.

Then at Restaurant Winter, the venison was tender enough to cut with a spoon, paired with lingonberries. I have venison often in Wisconsin, but I’ve never had anything that tender.

And then there was Frö…the meal that completely floored me.

This place is set in a cozy cabin in the woods with candles flickering and snow drifting outside. Frö features a tasting menu that changes with the seasons, but two dishes from that night will stay with me forever.

The first was slow-cooked pork, served with pickled rhubarb, wild rosemary oil, and a browned butter foam.

The second was an ice cream made with koji and woodruff from their garden — paired with frozen and fermented blueberries, deep-fried lichen, and a warm caramel infused with cep mushrooms. I’ll be thinking about that dish for the rest of my life.

It sounds fancy, but it didn’t feel that way. It felt personal, like creativity born from people who truly know their land. Even the non-alcoholic pairings were incredible; these were house-made drinks with flavors from the forest.

And by the end of the night, I realized it wasn’t just one of the best meals of my life. It was one of the most meaningful.

Cozy Places to Stay in Dalarna

After all that food, you’ll want somewhere equally comforting to unwind.

And if you think Scandinavia is cold, come to Dalarna and see how good they are at being warm. Not just the saunas, though nearly every hotel has one, but the people, too. Again, the hospitality here honestly rivals my fellow Midwesterners.

At Olarsgården, it feels like stepping into a classic storybook lodge. Wood-paneled walls, hearty food, and someone always offering you a hot coffee.

Hotel Bügelhof mixes ski lodge comfort with a modern, boutique feel — the rooms are spacious and new, the restaurant is wonderful, and you can ski straight from your room in the morning, then step right into the sauna afterward.

And at Stöten Mountain Lodge, you get panoramic mountain views and a heated outdoor pool where you can float in steaming water as snow falls around you. Plus, they have a huge sauna area here!

The Heart of Swedish Winter

But what stays with me most about Dalarna isn’t the activities, it’s the feeling. The kindness of the people. The calm of the landscape. Here, winter doesn’t feel like something you survive. It’s something you actually enjoy.

Dalarna might not be on every travel list yet — but it should be. It’s the version of winter you didn’t know you were missing.

If you would like to learn more about the Swedish Prescription, be sure to read my Småland piece. You can also learn more about dining in Dalarna, Sweden in this in-depth article.