Heltra: Explore Life – Discover More – Live Better

I Found My New Favorite Place In America’s Most Overlooked Destination


When I tell people that one of my favorite places in the whole entire world is in Michigan, they look at me like I’ve gone full-blown cuckoo bananas.

Map of the United States highlighting major cities and geographical features

Yes, Michigan. Specifically, the Upper Peninsula (the UP for short). And to get even more specific, there’s another peninsula within the Upper Peninsula called the Keweenaw Peninsula. I’m not exaggerating when I say the Keweenaw is one of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful (and culturally *unique*) places I’ve ever been.

Map showing the Keweenaw Peninsula in Michigan, USA, highlighted with surrounding major cities like Toronto, Chicago, and Minneapolis

The Keweenaw starts around the very cute town of Houghton, and here’s a fun geography fact: The northern part of the peninsula is actually kind of its own island.

Map showing the Keweenaw Peninsula in Michigan, highlighting towns and roads

See that bridge? Cross it, and you’re officially in the Keweenaw, and let me tell you, it feels like crossing into another world or something.

A scenic view of a map display next to a waterfront boardwalk, with a bridge and cloudy sky in the background

Advertisement

Advertisement

Now, let’s get into the hot deets about why I love this place.

A person takes a selfie with a road map of Keweenaw County in the background, surrounded by trees

First of all, you are truly out there. Like, really, really out there. They take this whole “last place on Earth” thing seriously.

Red brick building with sign "The Last Place on Earth," set against a clear blue sky, located on a quiet street with surrounding greenery

The UP essentially feels like its own state, and you’ll see reminders of that everywhere, including on license plates.

Front view of a Chevrolet truck with a yellow license plate featuring a silhouette of Michigan, parked on a street

And fancy plaid clothing:

Person in a checkered shirt with a map of Michigan's Upper Peninsula stands in a stadium with scattered spectators on tiered seats

Advertisement

Advertisement

And if the UP feels like its own state, the Keweenaw feels like its own little planet.

Person holding a map of Keweenaw Peninsula, showing roads and landmarks, with a forested area in the background

To get there, I flew into one of the smallest airports I’ve ever been to in Hancock, Michigan. On my previous trip to the UP, I flew into an airport with three gates in Traverse City. This airport only has one. I mean, how much smaller can an airport get???

A person stands next to a luggage cart at Houghton County Memorial Airport, with bags stacked on the cart

Related: “Only 0.1% Of People Can Score 8/10 On This Basic Geography Exam”

And now that we’re there, let’s get something out of the way: The Keweenaw has some of the most untouched, pristine, “hoooooly shit” landscapes you will ever see.

Rocky shoreline with gentle waves and a tree-lined horizon under a partly cloudy sky

I’m talking about the kind of place where you can just pull over on the side of the road and suddenly find yourself somewhere like this:

Shadow of a person making a peace sign on a sandy beach with trees and a cloudy sky in the background

Advertisement

Advertisement

Or this:

Waves gently crash on a pebble-covered beach with clear skies, creating a serene and inviting shoreline scene

Just completely alone:

Rocky shoreline with gentle waves and a wooded horizon under a blue sky with scattered clouds

If you’re like me and love finding sand dunes in places where you don’t expect sand dunes, then this place is for you.

Sandy path through grassy dunes leading to a cloudy sky, with a small trail marker on the side

It’s truly an Eat, Pray, Love type of place, except swap the pasta and cannolis for meat pouches and cinnamon rolls. More on those later.

Sandy path leading to a beach with a view of the ocean. A parked vehicle is visible near the shoreline under a cloudy sky

Advertisement

Advertisement

We also need to talk about Lake Superior for a second. It contains roughly 10% of the world’s fresh surface water. To put that into perspective, there’s so much water in Mama Superior that you could theoretically spread it across North and South America and cover the continents in about a foot of water.

Waves gently crash on a serene ocean under a sky filled with scattered clouds

It very much feels like the ocean, and if you haven’t been to a Great Lake, you are in for a “this is the damn sea” moment.

Rocky shoreline with small trees and waves under a cloudy sky

Hot tip: I truly believe, with my whole entire heart, that driving along Lake Superior on M-26 in the Keweenaw is one of the most beautiful drives in the world. I am not exaggerating!!

Map highlighting Copper Country Scenic Byway, heritage centers, mines, and maritime sites in the Keweenaw region by Lake Superior

Second thing about this place: Pasties. Look it up. Say it right. Eat them all.

Text from a forum post asking, "How do you pronounce pastie?"

Advertisement

Advertisement

It’s pronounced PAST-tees, BTW.

Pasties are to the UP what pizza is to New York, cheesesteaks are to Philly, and lobster rolls are to Maine.

Person in car holds a pasty, smiling

Fun fact: Pasties became super popular in the region thanks to Cornish miners who came to work in the copper mines during the 1800s. They were the perfect portable (and filling) lunch for someone spending a long day underground.

Pasties are basically meat-and-potato-filled pastry pockets, and they are a very, very big deal up here. One of these things is practically an entire meal.

A hand holds a pastry filled with a savory mixture beside a bowl of gravy on a table, suggesting a meal at a local or travel destination

Hot pasty tip: Many restaurants that don’t specialize in pasties only make them on certain days of the week, so check before you go. Personally, I liked Roy’s the best, but Mohawk Superette comes in a close second!

Exterior of a two-story building labeled "Rex's American Grill & Bar" with a red facade and large windows, set in a natural landscape

Also, I’m really not kidding. They have pasty street art.

Art display in a park featuring panels with colorful empanada illustrations

Advertisement

Advertisement

They also have fudge pasties (made of fudge, obv).

Display box of individually wrapped Sayklly's Fudgie Pasties for sale at $2.00 each on a store counter

And one place (Miner’s Cafe) even had a pasty omelet.

Omelette filled with vegetables and meat served with sliced toast on a plate

Besides pasties, another very-big-thing in the Keweenaw is the cinnamon rolls.

A cinnamon roll with icing on a plate next to a wrapped fork and mug on a diner counter

Related: “Can You Pass This Daily Trivia Quiz?”

It felt like every diner had its own version. The best I had was at Slim’s Cafe.

Cinnamon roll with creamy icing, partially cut and served on a plate with a fork and knife; appears to be a breakfast setting

Advertisement

Advertisement

And these are not your average little cinnamon rolls. Like, I could barely type after eating this.

Text conversation about cinnamon rolls, described as "insane" and "one of the best things," with a comment on the buttercream icing

And speaking of diners, diner culture is VERY much alive and well here.

Street view of Miners Cafe, with a vintage 7 Up sign, an American flag, and parked cars along the sidewalk

And you know what they also have??? Diner prices!

Receipt on a table with a drink nearby, showing $7.49 total. Handwritten note says "Thanks!" signed with a name

Another thing we gotta talk about is the Finnish culture.

Storefronts with signs for a restaurant, saloon, barber shop, insurance office, and apartments. An American flag is displayed in the window

Advertisement

Advertisement

It’s everywhere. The Keweenaw has one of the largest concentrations of people with Finnish ancestry in the country, and you can really see the influence all over the place.

Finnish and American flags outside a building on a quaint street with a scenic backdrop of hills and trees

One of the cutest places I ate at was a restaurant called Suomi, which even had a whole section of Finnish specialties on the menu.

Breakfast menu featuring Finnish specialties like Pannukakku, Nisu Toast, and Cinnamon French Toast, with prices listed

This is a Finnish pancake called pannukakku. Still no idea how to say it, but it was delicious and unlike anything I’ve ever had.

A diner counter with toast topped with ketchup, a biscuit, and gravy. Nearby are a beverage, newspaper, and diner equipment in the background

And because of the Finnish influence, sauna culture is a huge deal as well. I gotta be honest, before this trip, I never really understood saunas. I thought it was just sitting in some hot, stinky room in a gym basement, but nope. It’s a whole ritual. Get really hot and then get really cold. Shock the system! I rented a sauna at Takka Saunas, where I got to take in this gorgeous view and experience my very first cold plunge. And honestly? Loved it. I left feeling oddly rejuvenated and officially a sauna truther.

View from a cozy cabin showing two chairs on a deck overlooking a river and bridge, framed by the window's edge.

Advertisement

Advertisement

Another huge part of the Keweenaw’s history is copper mining, and believe it or not, before the California Gold Rush, there was the copper rush in Michigan. The Keweenaw is home to America’s first major mining boom!

Person in a hard hat inside a tunnel, making a peace sign gesture, suggesting an adventurous or exploration-themed setting

Fun fact: Indigenous peoples were mining copper in the Lake Superior region thousands of years before European settlers arrived. Also, the Keweenaw is home to one of the greatest concentrations of naturally occurring metallic copper in the world!

There are remnants of the mining industry ALL over the peninsula, and you’ll see ruins literally everywhere. One of the most famous places to explore this history is the Quincy Mine. This huge structure was built in 1908 and is essentially one of the mascots of the Keweenaw. It quite literally towers over the main towns of Hancock and Houghton.

Scenic view of a historic mining structure and a red building surrounded by autumn trees

Nameinfame / Getty Images/iStockphoto

The Quincy Mine itself was built in 1846, and just to put that into perspective, this is what it looked like in 1875:

Historical image of a steep incline railway descending toward a distant river and forest, with a man standing on a cart, showcasing early travel infrastructure

Graphic House / Getty Images

And here’s a similar view in 2026:

Cable car passengers wearing hard hats view a scenic landscape with trees and distant cityscape

Related: “Things Americans Do That Leave The Rest Of The World Baffled”

At the mine, you can learn about something called the “man engine,” an absolutely wild contraption that miners once used to travel up and down mine shafts. I’m just sharing it because of the name… and also because it’s insane that people rode this thing everyday DEEP into the earth.

A model titled "The Man-Engine" featuring miners and an explanatory plaque about its historical significance in mining

At the Quincy Mine, you obviously get to go inside an actual mine, and, minor spoiler, the craziest part of the tour is when they show you just how dark it was for the miners. They light a candle, blow it out, and suddenly you’re standing there in complete darkness. Truly spooky.

Dimly lit underground tunnel with wet, reflective floor and rocky walls, leading towards a bright light in the distance

Another wildly specific, only-in-the-Keweenaw place is the Jampot, a bakery run by actual monks. It’s probably the only place where you’ll be blessed after checking out with some of the most delicious chocolate cake you’ve ever had. I have to admit, the tip screen made me feel a little pressured to tip 20%. I meeeeean, who wants to risk that kind of bad juju for not tipping monks?!

Bakery counter with assorted pastries and a male staff member packing items. Signs display options like chocolate pear cake with toffee

And yeah, once again, I could barely type after eating this.

Text messages about a bakery run by monks, featuring an image of chocolate cake held in a hand

Another thing you need to know about the Keweenaw is that rock collecting is a thing. Agates are life (IYKYK). And some of these rocks glow in the dark.

Waves gently crash onto a pebbled beach, with smooth stones scattered across the shoreline and a distant ocean horizon

Well, technically, under UV light. They’re called Yooperlites.

Lava stones displayed in a shop with a black light highlighting some stones, prices visible on small tags

If you haven’t picked up on it yet, people from the UP in general are called “Yoopers.”

Oh, and here’s an example of wildly colorful rocks I picked up. It’s giving Natural Wonders store, but real life and not in a mall in the ’90s.

Hand holding two small stones, one smooth and reddish, the other green with a dark patch, in a natural outdoor setting

Another thing you absolutely must do is go to Gay.

Person taking a selfie with a sign reading "Gay" on a roadside, surrounded by trees and a cloudy sky

There, you can see the Gay Schoolhouse and buy some Gay honey.

Sign for Gay Schoolhouse Museum in front of a historic building, part of Keweenaw Heritage Site, surrounded by trees and grass

You can visit the Gay bar.

Sign at "Gay Bar" in Gay, Michigan. Background includes trees, a house, and a parked truck on a rural street

And you can even support Gay rights while walking around an old abandoned industrial site.

Tall chimney stands among trees beside rock with "GAY RIGHTS" graffiti, under a blue sky

But in all seriousness, the Gay stamp sands are fascinating. It’s a beautiful but eerie place, and a reminder of just how much copper mining changed the landscape. It might look like your typical gorgeous Lake Superior beach, but there’s a pretty wild catch: It’s actually part of a Superfund site. The sand is actually crushed rock and waste from copper mining, and it contains metals like copper that can be harmful to the environment.

Beach with scattered debris, trees, and a distant industrial chimney under a partly cloudy sky

Oh, and Gay was established in 1901. The more you know!

Sign detailing the history of a town established in 1901, mentioning mining and lumbering industries, under a clear sky

Speaking of Gay, there’s also BigGoat Farm… which is also very gay.

A mug with "BigGoat Farm" logo sits on a wooden table outdoors, near a small bowl of snacks in a countryside setting

And I love this place. The owners are Danielle and Grace Perkowitz. They started the farm in 2023, and they’re working toward opening their own licensed goat dairy and creamery, which is extremely exciting news for people like me who love cheese.

Two people standing in a grassy field petting goats, with a trailer and orchard in the background under a cloudy sky

And I love a good farm-to-table situation where you know exactly where your cheese is coming from.

Picnic setup with mason jars of various spreads on a wooden table, hand reaching for a jar. Outdoor setting in a grassy area

Speaking of goats, their goats are essentially domesticated giant (and I mean giant) therapy goats (that’s what I’m calling them). Danielle and Grace know all of their names, and last year they were all named after spices. For size reference, that’s me with Big Mama. She was very large! Again, it’s called BigGoat Farm for a reason!

A man wearing casual outdoor clothing is petting goats in front of a barn in a rural setting

BuzzFeed, Matt Stopera/BuzzFeed

Another thing I absolutely loved about the Keweenaw is how many strange little roadside attractions there are like this rock shop with an energy vortex in the back.

Sign for Prospector's Paradise with animal murals and rocks displayed in the foreground. Clear sky and rustic setting

To get to the vortex, you cross this unsuspecting little bridge where you find yourself surrounded by some very unusual-looking trees. Legend has it that underground rivers create some sort of mysterious energy here and the twisted, magical-looking trees are supposedly channels for it. People claim that touching certain spots on the trees can transfer this energy to you healing ailments etc. The Vortex is apparently “a haven for mystics, psychics, witches, pagans, and many others of the metaphysical and occult.” Spooky, but also cool.

Wooden footbridge leading to a grassy field surrounded by trees, with a sign in the distance reading

Related: “We Know The Hyper-Specific City You Should Live In”

Now, I’m not making any scientific claims here, but I swear my tongue went numb, and I’m truly not kidding. I also heard a weird noise from the woods, but let’s be real, it was probably a bird lol.

Person standing among tall trees in a wooded area, posing with their arms outstretched, wearing a beanie and casual outdoor clothing

Speaking of trees, there’s also this place called the Estivant Pines, which I’m calling the Keweenaw’s version of the Sequoias.

Large tree with exposed roots in a forest, surrounded by leaves and trees, suggesting a natural setting, ideal for outdoor exploration

It’s an old-growth forest filled with enormous 300-500 year-old white pines. As you can see, my woo-woo thing is I believe in the energy of trees. You have to harness that!!

Hand touching a large tree trunk in a forest setting, conveying a connection with nature

^Getting spiritual lol.

OK, one last thing about trees. There are wild apple trees all over the place, and I learned that they’re often a sign that an old homestead was once nearby. So, basically, if you spot an apple tree in the middle of nowhere in the Keweenaw, there’s a good chance someone lived there a long time ago.

Tree in a serene grassy meadow, branches filled with small clusters of fruit, against a partly cloudy sky. Tranquil nature setting

One of the weirdest places I visited in the Keweenaw was a former Cold War Air Force base that was bought by a group of friends and family. It’s called the Open Skies Project, and it’s located at the former Calumet Air Force Station. The base was built during the Cold War to help detect potential enemy aircrafts approaching the US from the Soviet Union.

A person in a camo jacket and jeans stands on a quiet street with autumn trees and houses in the background

And now it looks like something straight out of a horror movie, but like, cool and peaceful.

Empty residential street with abandoned houses against a backdrop of autumn trees

Fun fact: This place used to have its own housing, movie theater, bowling alley, and other facilities. It was basically an entire little community on top of a mountain.

The station closed in 1988, and decades later, said friends bought the property with plans to preserve it and open it up for people to explore. Now they give tours on the weekends and I hiiiiighly, highly recommend it.

View from a high vantage point overlooking a town with buildings and trees, under a partly cloudy sky

And the views. Just look at those fall colors, people.

Scenic view from a high observation deck overlooking a vast forest with autumn foliage and a distant body of water under a cloudy sky

Plus the graffiti: “Oprah has a turtle farm” is top tier.

Graffiti on a worn building wall reads "Oprah has a turtle farm." A wooden door is labeled "Open Sesame."

To shift gears, because the Keweenaw is apparently full of extremely specific historical landmarks, it’s also home to a stretch of Michigan’s oldest concrete pavement*.

Sign reading "Michigan's Oldest Concrete Pavement, Built in 1900," displayed on a street corner near a grassy area and potted flowers

*Which reminds me, I need to see the new John Wilson concrete documentary.

And then there’s this humongous snow thermometer. It’s THE must-do photo-op on the peninsula.

Person smiling and pointing at a tall snow gauge in Keweenaw, highlighting snowfall measurements against a backdrop of trees

That little arrow up there shows just how much snow they got last winter: Over 25 feet!!!

But honestly, as much as I loved the weird roadside attractions, the history, the rocks, the pasties, the goats, and whatever was happening with those energy trees, my favorite part of the Keweenaw is just the peace of it all.

Scenic coastal view with sandy path, trees, and a bench overlooking the ocean under a bright sky. Peaceful travel destination

The sunsets.

Street with historic brick buildings and sunset sky, creating a peaceful urban scene

The sunrises (underrated).

Sunset over a calm river, with a view from a bridge. The sky is cloudy, and a town is visible on the riverbank

The feeling that you can just get in your car, drive for a little while, and find yourself somewhere that looks like nobody else has discovered it yet.

Sandy beach with gentle waves, scattered driftwood, and a lone pine tree under a cloudy sky, creating a serene and natural coastal scene

They say that once you visit the Keweenaw, you always find your way back. And after this trip, I GET it. There’s something about this place that just sticks with you: Maybe it’s that billion-year-old energy, maybe it’s the hypnotic pull of Lake Superior, or maybe I just really, really want another pasty. Whatever it is, I already know I’ll be back.

Person sitting in an airport terminal near a large window, watching a small commercial airplane outside

Cya soon <3<3<3

Person takes a selfie with scenic autumn foliage and a lake in the background, wearing a casual white sweater and cap

OK, and because I know some of you are going to ask, here are some of the places I visited and loved during my five days there:

Where I ate and drank:

Roy’s Pasties & Bakery: My favorite pasty.

Mohawk Superette: Another excellent pasty.

Slim’s Cafe: My favorite cinnamon roll.

Suomi Restaurant: Finnish food, including delicious Finnish pancakes. Also another great pasty.

Miner’s Cafe: Home of the pasty omelet.

The Jampot: The famous bakery run by monks.

Camp Coffee: Amazing cold brew.

The Ambassador: Famous for its fishbowl cocktails and pizza.

Things I did:

Quincy Mine: A very cool underground copper mine tour (great for context on the area).

Takka Saunas: Gorgeous sauna spot.

BigGoat Farm: Goats, goats, and more goats (also cheese + soap).

The Open Skies Project: A former Cold War-era Air Force station that you can tour.

The Keweenaw Vortex: For anyone interested in some mysterious tree energy.

Nature preserves and parks:

Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary: An old-growth forest filled with giant trees.

Black Creek Nature Sanctuary: A gorgeous, peaceful walk through the woods and along Lake Superior.

Gratiot River County Park: A beautiful spot where the river meets Lake Superior. Great for rock hunting.

My favorite beaches:

Hunter’s Point Park (Copper Harbor): A lovely shoreline with incredible Lake Superior views.

Calumet Waterworks Park: Another nice little beach moment.

McLain State Park: Perfect for a little walk.

Bete Grise Beach: A gorg sandy beach famous for its “whispering sands.” 

The Gay Stamp Sands: A fascinating former industrial site with a *complicated* environmental history.

Great Sand Bay (near Eagle Harbor): A cute little bay with Instagram-worthy stairs leading down to it.

Shopping:

Annie’s Thrift: A great spot for vintage shopping.

Other very Keweenaw things:

M-26: One of the most beautiful scenic drives I’ve ever taken.

Calumet, Michigan: A very cute town filled with historic buildings (Keweenaw Coffee Works also has great coffee).

The giant snow thermometer: An absolutely essential Keweenaw photo-op.

Houhgton waterfront walk: An adorable little walk along the Portage Canal with beautiful views of Hancock.

Flights and accommodations were provided by Visit Keweenaw. All other expenses were paid for by me!

Your daily brain workout: This Adorable Little Word Chain Is The Perfect Bite-Sized Brain Workout You Didn’t Know You Needed

Read it on BuzzFeed.com



Source link
ADVERTISEMENT