Frequently Asked Questions
Are hydrangea plants poisonous to cats?
Yes, hydrangeas can be toxic to pets like cats and dogs, according to the Animal Humane Society. The plant leaves contain cyanide, so if your cat has a habit of chewing on plants, keep a watchful eye. Ingesting this plant can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, or depression in your pet.
How should you prune hydrangea?
Hydrangeas fall into two basic pruning categories: those that bloom on old wood and those that bloom on new wood. “Once you understand when your hydrangea blooms, pruning becomes much less intimidating,” says Harrison. “When in doubt, prune less rather than more. Many hydrangeas thrive with nothing more than the removal of dead wood and spent blooms.”
Here, Harrison breaks down the hydrangea pruning process.
Old‑Wood Bloomers: Prune After Flowering
Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood form their flower buds on last year’s growth. These varieties include bigleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla, which typically have blue, purple, or pink flowers. Well‑known cultivars include ‘Endless Summer,’ ‘Nikko Blue,’ and ‘Blushing Bride.’
These should be pruned only after flowering, if at all, and primarily to remove dead or damaged stems. Heavy pruning in fall, winter, or early spring can remove developing buds and result in little to no bloom the following season. While some newer reblooming varieties are more forgiving, the safest approach here is still minimal pruning.
New‑Wood Bloomers: Prune While Dormant
Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood form flowers on the current season’s growth. Popular groups include panicle hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, such as ‘Bobo,’ ‘Pufferfish,’ and ‘Limelight.’ These are tolerant to pruning, which can be done in late winter or early spring, while the plant is dormant but before new growth begins. Regular pruning helps keep these hydrangeas strong, well‑shaped, and filled with blooms.
How should you propagate hydrangea?
If you’re looking to spread hydrangea shrubs all over your back yard, you’ll need to propagate by cuttings, not seeds. Start by cutting a four- to six-inch stem, without the bloom, dip it into a rooting hormone and place into a small container of moist soil. “Softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings should be treated with 1,000ppm auxin rooting hormone,” Black says. “While hardwood cuttings and more difficult to root varieties are treated with 3,000 to 5,000ppm rooting hormone.” Once the cuttings establish themselves, you can transfer them to soil.
Source: www.architecturaldigest.com
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