The Panama Canal, which slices through the North and South American continents, carving a 51-mile path between the east and west coasts, where it links the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, is a rite of passage for dedicated cruisers. It’s the world’s most famous shortcut, saving an 8,000-mile detour around Cape Horn that would take 21 days, and an engineering marvel that puts it squarely at the top of most travellers’ bucket lists.
Having sailed this famous waterway for the first time last spring and again – in the opposite direction – last winter, I can vouch for the anticipation that accompanies each crossing.
Sailing along the canal’s length takes around nine hours, with transits usually starting at dawn and ending during the afternoon. Crowds of passengers gather on deck for the best views as the ship enters the locks that mark the entrances on each side.
It’s a fascinating experience, and you don’t have to be interested in engineering to marvel at the locks’ feat of raising ships 26 metres (85 feet) above sea level to cross the central portion of the continental divide. As a cruising experience, the Panama Canal stands on its own and deserves its bucket-list status.
In this guide:
Before you book
What is a Panama Canal cruise?
There are a few options. As well as Panama Canal itineraries, transits are incorporated into world cruises (itineraries of three months or more) and longer sailings between the east and west coast of the Americas, often featuring destinations in the Caribbean and Central America.
A full crossing negotiates the entire canal, but there are partial crossings that only enter the first set of locks to give guests a flavour.
A partial crossing of a Panama Canal cruise may only reach the first set of locks – Danny Lehman/The Image Bank RF
How long does it take?
The entire transit of the canal takes around nine hours. Cruises that include full Panama Canal crossings tend to be longer than the average cruise, at around 16 days or more. Partial canal crossings usually depart and return to the same port and take around 12 days.
Where do Panama Canal cruises go?
Some sailings start or end at Panama City close to the canal’s Pacific entrance, while others depart from or arrive at ports as far north as Vancouver. US ports, including East Coast cities such as Miami, Fort Lauderdale, New York and Port Canaveral and the Texan port of Galveston, plus Seattle, San Diego, San Francisco and Los Angeles on the West Coast, all feature.
Longer cruises incorporate ports in the Caribbean and Central America with stops such as Aruba, Cartagena, Mexico’s Riviera Maya, Baja California and Costa Rica.
What is a partial transit?
The ship passes through one set of locks only but offers a taster and is a good way for travellers who don’t have time or money for longer voyages to experience it. These sailings generally depart and/or return from Miami or Fort Lauderdale with ships entering the first lock on the Caribbean side of the canal. Following the partial transit, ships sail into Gatun Lake, where they may spend a few hours before turning around.
Unlike full passages, where no tours are offered, partial transits allow guests to leave the ship to explore before rejoining it later at a nearby port such as Colón.
Which ship should I choose?
Sailing the Panama Canal is a memorable experience, whatever the size of the ship you are on. Larger ships offer more decks and a wider choice of vantage points, but the Panamax (smaller ship) experience feels more authentic, and my preference is sailing the older locks.
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When is the best time of year to visit?
Most Panama Canal sailings run from October to April, avoiding the humid conditions of the summer months and the Atlantic hurricane season.
Larger ships may offer more on-board facilities but might not provide the full Panamax experience – Alastair Miller/Viking
Is it better to go through the canal eastwards or westwards?
Having cruised it in both directions, my preference would be to cross from the Pacific side to the Atlantic. Sailing towards the first lock at sunrise and passing under the Bridge of the Americas with the misty silhouette of the Panama City skyline in the distance is magical.
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Life on board
Who will my fellow passengers be?
On full transits, which are longer and may be part of larger, around-the-world cruises or longer sailings, there will probably be fewer families and more older passengers – particularly if sailings are outside of school holidays.
Partial transits that coincide with school holidays and incorporate more Caribbean stops are likely to have a similar mix of families and adults as other Caribbean cruises around this time.
What happens on the day of the transit?
The day starts early, sometimes before it gets light and most guests are determined to find their perfect spot (decks can get crowded). Generally, the ship approaches the canal from around 5.30am and arrives at the first locks shortly afterwards. Some ships will have an expert on the bridge to provide commentary and point out interesting sights along the way.
As the day progresses, the normal routine of ship life returns, though for westbound sailings, the view of Panama City becomes a point of interest as you leave the canal.
Panama City is close to the canal’s Pacific entrance – Nico De Pasquale Photography
What is there to see?
Once through the locks, ships pass into the giant freshwater lakes – Gatun Lake on the Caribbean side and Miraflores Lake on the Pacific side – that provide the water needed to operate them.
Look out for the crocodiles and caimans commonly seen here. If you’re lucky, you may spot toucans, sloths and monkeys. It’s worth taking a pair of binoculars.
The Culebra Cut channel, which crosses the Continental Divide, is the narrowest part of the canal at 91.5m (300ft). Here, passengers get a closer view of the vegetation, which is denser on the rugged Caribbean side. Another point of interest is the El Renacer Prison, where Panamanian dictator Manuel Noriega spent his final years.
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Before you go
What type of cabin should I book?
It’s worth paying a bit more for a balcony cabin as the main decks can get very busy. If your balcony is lower than the main public decks, you’ll also feel closer to the action when passing through the locks.
Are there many sea days?
Full transits are regarded as a “sea day” equivalent, as you don’t get off the ship, and there may be sea days either side, too. If you’re sailing between, say, Florida and California, expect around eight sea days. Look through the itinerary in advance to find out.
Book a cabin with a balcony lower than the main public decks to feel closer to the action when passing through the locks – Barry Winiker/The Image Bank RF
Are there any excursions?
There are no excursions on the day of Panama Canal full transits, unless your ship stops afterwards at Panama City. During partial transits, only official cruise line tours are permitted. Options on the partial transit I did included railroad trips and ferry rides to the canal’s Pacific side, kayak outings on Gatun Lake and visits to a nearby village. I opted to visit the new Agua Clara locks and visitor centre, which gave interesting details on the canal’s history and development.
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About our expert
Sara Macefield
After finding her sea legs 20 years ago, Sara has gone on an estimated 200 voyages (and counting) across the world’s oceans and rivers, with Antarctica and the Galapagos Islands scoring as all-time favourites.
Telegraph Travel’s cruise expert, Sara Macefield
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