Jersey, a Crown Dependency, is neither part of the UK nor the EU, but is closely bound to both. It’s just 14 miles off the coast of Normandy, and while you’ll detect echoes of France in its architecture and place names, its atmosphere and landscapes feel as comfortingly British as tea with scones, jam and cream.
It’s compact, and best explored at leisure, ideally by bus, bike or on foot. There are prehistoric sites, medieval castles and Second World War remnants to discover, coastal footpaths to wander and a collection of lovely beaches, lapped by clear waters.
Food-wise, there’s much to enjoy. Jersey’s seafood, in particular, is superb. As for that cream tea, the island’s pretty cows produce milk so luscious that to miss out would be a crying shame. To add a uniquely local twist, swap jam for Jersey black butter, a rich fruit spread that’s like Christmas in a jar.
For further Jersey inspiration, see our guides to the best hotels, restaurants, bars and nightlife, things to do and beaches.
In this guide:
How to spend the perfect day
Morning
Jersey has layer upon layer of cultural heritage. To get your bearings, both historically and geographically, head east to Gorey. Here, you can glimpse the Normandy coast from Mont Orgueil Castle, a splendid medieval castle presiding over a pretty pier and harbour. Satisfyingly intact, this hefty Jersey landmark has rugged battlements and secret passageways to explore. While it’s largely unfurnished, a series of site-specific sculptures help bring its ancient stones alive.
It’s a 10-minute drive from Gorey to Archirondel Bay, a quiet, pebble-strewn cove where you’ll normally see more locals than tourists. If the weather’s reasonably fine, enjoy your first dip in Jersey’s beautiful, clear waters – there are showers to warm you up afterwards – then tuck into a light lunch of lobster rolls or crab linguine at the easy-going, sustainability-conscious Driftwood Café, perched right on the cove.
jersey travel guide
Explore the charming towns and coastline on a weekend in Jersey – David Clapp / Patrick Donovan
Afternoon
Next, head into the island’s capital, St Helier, to wander the pleasantly old-fashioned streets in its historic centre and visit its best museums.
The Jersey Museum, Art Gallery and Victorian House is an excellent place to start. The ground floor focuses on natural history and geology, and the first floor unlocks what it means to be Jèrriais, displaying items as diverse as mammoth bones, identity cards issued under German occupation during the 1940s and honeymoon memorabilia from the 50s and 60s.
The Maritime Museum and Occupation Tapestry Gallery down on the quayside complements the main museum by using art, craft and model-making to illustrate Jersey’s maritime traditions and wartime suffering. For another angle on Jersey’s flourishing creative scene, head inland to CCA Galleries International, St Helier’s most impressive gallery, which displays four floors of art.
CCA showcases some of Britain’s best contemporary art
Evening
Now that you’ve dosed up on culture, you deserve a drink. Unwind over cocktails and Cornish caviar at The Watchmaker, or score a table at Vinifera to sip wine from its dizzying selection.
From here, head to the personable Longueville Manor. It’s a superb choice for dinner, with homely reception rooms to relax in beforehand and friendly, accommodating staff. Andrew Baird, like all Jersey’s best chefs, conjures up delicious dishes from island ingredients such as scallops, sea bass and Jersey Royal potatoes.
Jersey doesn’t have anything approaching the flamboyant club scene of, say, Gran Canaria or Ibiza, but St Helier has a few late night drinking spots. The Porter’s Store and The Blind Pig stay open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, and whip up wicked cocktails.
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How to spend a week-long holiday
If your first day has kindled your interest in Jersey’s rich history, you’ll be fascinated by the island’s grittiest museum, the Jersey War Tunnels. When you come up for air, head down to bright and breezy St Aubin for pizza at The Loft. If it’s beach weather, chill out on sandy St Brelade’s Bay before dining on succulent seafood at Oyster Box.
Kickstart your next morning with coffee at Bean Around the World in St Helier, then hire a bicycle or e-bike and ride around the west, pausing for Jersey ice cream from the stall near La Corbière Lighthouse and lunch at Off the Rails. Loop back to St Aubin’s Bay to try your hand at some watersports, before returning your bike and enjoying dinner at Samphire.
Coastline of Saint Aubin, Jersey, Channel Islands, UK at low tide and sunset
St Aubin is undoubtedly the most picturesque bay on Jersey – Allard Schager / Getty; Samphire
After all those exertions, spend an easy-going day in the east. First, soak up the mystical atmosphere at La Hougue Bie, Jersey’s neolithic heritage site and Celtic coin in the museum, and have an early lunch in the Tea Rooms. Next, spend the afternoon at Jersey Zoo where, whatever your age, you’ll find creatures to enchant you. Round off the day with oysters and dinner at The Moorings.
The next morning, pop into a farm shop for picnic supplies, then visit the Jersey Wetland Centre hide for a spot of birdwatching – with luck, you could see a marsh harrier. Carry on up to the northwest coast for a clifftop walk along a section of the Jersey Tidal Trail, lunching at one of its many inspiring viewpoints. Later, head south for a dip in Portelet Bay and supper at the Portelet Inn.
Jersey is spoilt for choice when it comes to beautiful beaches
It’s well worth exploring the waters around Jersey during your week. If conditions allow, jump aboard a rib boat, keeping your fingers crossed for a dolphin sighting. Next, enjoy a pleasant afternoon of garden-wandering, with lunch at Ransoms and visits to the Eric Young Orchid Foundation and Samarès Manor. In the evening, have a relaxing dinner at Mark Jordan at the Beach.
Towards the end of your trip, pick a favourite Jersey beach – St Ouen’s for blokarting, maybe, Bouley Bay for snorkelling or pretty little Beauport Bay – and indulge in some all-out relaxation. Finally, to close your week on a culinary high, book a table for dinner at Bohemia, and prepare to be wowed by its snazzy cuisine.
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When to go
Jersey enjoys mild weather all year round, and spring can be beautiful, with wildflowers dotting the clifftops. However, the sunniest, calmest spells come between summer and early autumn. July and August are the busiest months, but the island rarely feels too crowded, even during the Battle of the Flowers, a major summer carnival. In winter, prices drop; if chilly winds send you scurrying indoors, this is a good time to visit museums and relax in cosy pubs.
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Where to stay
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Luxury living
Longueville Manor sits in stately repose among acres of woodland, and is the most prestigious hotel in Jersey. It provides the perfect balance between country house retreat and boutique hotel; you can opt for croquet on the lawn or a De Mamiel facial in the spa, and enjoy menus packed with local produce.
Designer digs
St Brelade’s Bay Hotel is an upmarket hotel with contemporary décor and old-fashioned service set back from picturesque St Brelade’s Bay. Lounge in lush gardens in summer or enjoy the indoor health club in winter. Pamper yourself with beauty treatments, decadent afternoon teas and top-notch dinners with views of the bay.
Budget bolthole
Hotel De Normandie is a popular, friendly three-star hotel situated right across from the beach and close to the seawater bathing pool of Havre des Pas. Enjoy the heated indoor swimming pool and sauna and wake up to a fabulous breakfast spread. Families come for the spacious affordable family rooms and laidback vibe.
Hotel De Normandie is conveniently located in St Helier – OLLIE JONES
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How to get there and how to get around
DFDS crosses from Poole and Portsmouth to Jersey’s capital, St Helier, and British Airways, EasyJet, Jet2 and Loganair fly from UK airports to Jersey’s international airport in St Peter.
LibertyBus is reliable and costs £2.55 per trip (if you pay by contactless); most routes radiate from St Helier. Taxis are plentiful and cost around £3 per mile, with a surcharge after 11pm and on Sundays and public holidays. St Helier is compact and walkable, and the island has a network of cycle routes. A car isn’t strictly necessary, but handy; hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz or Sixt.
Know before you go
Essential information
Visitor Information Centre: Jersey Museum, St Helier JE2 3NG; 01534 859000; jersey.com
The basics
Currency: GBP
Tel code: +44
Time difference: Same as the UK
Travel time: One hour, five minutes by plane from London Gatwick
Accessibility
Jersey is an excellent destination for travellers with disabilities. However, some of the more remote beaches can’t be reached in a wheelchair.
Dog friendly
Jersey welcomes dogs. You must always clean up after them, and keep them on a lead on beaches between 10.30am and 6pm from May to September.
About our expert
Emma Gregg
Travel journalist Emma Gregg has visited all seven continents and more than 100 islands. She spent a blissful summer in the Channel Islands as a teenager and has had a soft spot for them ever since.
Emma Gregg, Telegraph Travel’s Jersey expert
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