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This Magnificent 36-island Indian Archipelago Is Only Open to Permitted Visitors, Here’s What We Saw on Our Visit


The Archipelago of Lakshadweep lies about 200 miles off the coast of mainland India. Of its 36 islands, only 10 are inhabited, and most of their roughly 64,000 residents are Indigenous people who make their living by fishing and cultivating coconuts. Each year only three or four islands are open to visitors, and special authorization from Lakshadweep’s administration is required. Francesco Lastrucci, a frequent traveler to India, was drawn to the territory’s solitude and beauty. “Since access is limited, it’s not a typical destination,” he says. On a trip during Ramadan a few years ago, Lastrucci traveled to the islands of Agatti, Bangaram, and Kavaratti, the territorial capital. Every evening, he was invited to break the fast on the beach with the women who lead the matrilineal society. “Most of the people on the islands are Muslim,” he says, “so it was a very special time to go, but also a calm and quiet one.” —Erianne Lewis

Fish swim around staghorn coral in a reef off Bangaram Island, in Lakshadweep.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

Fish swim around staghorn coral in a reef off Bangaram Island, in Lakshadweep.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Two girls play on a fishing boat at sunset on Kavaratti; the steering wheel of a boat heading to Bangaram.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Two girls play on a fishing boat at sunset on Kavaratti; the steering wheel of a boat heading to Bangaram.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Clothes hang on a Kavaratti patio; hermit crabs on a Kavaratti beach.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Clothes hang on a Kavaratti patio; hermit crabs on a Kavaratti beach.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

Amina, a scuba diver and resident of Agatti, cuts a coconut on Parali island.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

Amina, a scuba diver and resident of Agatti, cuts a coconut on Parali island.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

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A beach on Agatti, in Lakshadweep, near the Eastern Boat Jetty pier.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

A beach on Agatti, in Lakshadweep, near the Eastern Boat Jetty pier.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Traditional wooden boats take visitors from island to island; the balcony of a house in Kavaratti, the most developed island of the archipelago.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Traditional wooden boats take visitors from island to island; the balcony of a house in Kavaratti, the most developed island of the archipelago.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

Women search for seashells during low tide on Kavaratti.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

Women search for seashells during low tide on Kavaratti.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

A sea turtle swims off of Bangaram, in Lakshadweep.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

A sea turtle swims off of Bangaram, in Lakshadweep.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

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From left: Mohamed Abdul Raheem, founder of the Research, Environment and Education Foundation (REEF), checks the coral nursery in the Kavaratti lagoon in Lakshadweep; a weaver of palm leaves on a Kavaratti road, in Lakshadweep.Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

From left: Mohamed Abdul Raheem, founder of the Research, Environment and Education Foundation (REEF), checks the coral nursery in the Kavaratti lagoon in Lakshadweep; a weaver of palm leaves on a Kavaratti road, in Lakshadweep.
Credit: Francesco Lastrucci

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