This Is the Oldest Town in the Pacific Northwest—and It Has Victorian Architecture, Movie History, and Coastal Charm

Astoria, Oregon

• Stay dockside above the Columbia River at Bowline Hotel, a fishery-turned-boutique hotel with a spiffy bar and cedar barrel saunas.

• Discover Astoria’s history indoors and outdoors at museums and state parks, from exhibits devoted to shipwrecks to visiting Lewis and Clark’s old campsite.

• Climb to the top of the Astoria Column to take in the lay of the land, with panoramic views of headlands, forests, and waterways.

• Queue for crunchy fish and chips at Bowpicker Fish & Chips, served from a repurposed boat by the waterfront.

• Visit in winter for a cold-weather getaway, when you can ship-watch from cozy cafes, peruse stores and museums, and go for blustery walks on the beach.

Pretty and gritty: that’s how some locals describe Astoria, Oregon, a far-flung town sitting where the Columbia River meets the Pacific. Beauty, it has in spades; ornate Victorian and Queen Anne-style homes, holdovers from its heyday as a prosperous shipping port, crowd the hills (earning it the nickname “Little San Francisco”). And you’ll never be far from a view of the river and the Washington shore here.

Related: The 110 Best Amazon Black Friday Deals for Travelers—Score Samsonite, Apple, Brooks, and More From Just $8

Then there’s the “gritty” side. In its long history as the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, the town has faced fires, maritime tragedies, and wild winter storms with lashing winds and pummeling rain. Founded in 1811 by fur traders, Astoria is not only the oldest town in Oregon, but the Pacific Northwest as a whole. Just offshore, the treacherous waters of the Columbia Bar, part of the notorious “Graveyard of the Pacific,” have doomed hundreds of ships. It’s a scrappy little community that draws the world in—European explorers, Lewis and Clark, fur traders, Scandinavian and Chinese cannery workers, filmmakers and cinephiles, and now adventurous travelers—with its mythos and dramatic setting.

“Astoria is one of those rare coastal towns where history, scenery, and character come together perfectly,” says Caroline Wuebben, director of external engagement for the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

Linh DePledge, an Astoria resident and the vice president of brand and communications at Vesta Hospitality, which represents Astoria’s Cannery Pier, agrees. “There’s such a lovely and close-knit community,” she says.

Of course, there is a steady stream of Truffle Shuffling fans visiting sites from the classic ‘80s flick “The Goonies,” but visitors also come here seeking raw nature, coastal scenery, and epic tales of discovery and resilience. Thrifting thrives in downtown’s many vintage shops, fishmongers sling fresh-caught catches at seafood markets, and historic waterfront canneries and fish processing plants now house cute cafes, restaurants, and stores.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Astoria, Oregon.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Bowline Hotel

This former fish processing plant found new life as a chic, nautical-themed boutique hotel along the Astoria waterfront. Watch ships cruise by from the balconies of spic-and-span rooms or while breaking a sweat in the pierside barrel saunas. The Knot Bar is an elevated watering hole for cocktails made with locally produced spirits, served alongside Scandinavian light bites.

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa

Sitting at the end of a 600-foot-long pier next to the Astoria-Megler Bridge, the Cannery Pier Hotel is an icon of the town waterfront with its industrial smokestacks and fire engine-red facade. Its plum position affords each room a river view, including the fire-warmed bar. Dinner can be found at the foot of the pier at Bridgewater Bistro.

Commodore Hotel

The Commodore Hotel is a piece of Astoria history dressed up in hipster clothing—a 1925 building furnished with contemporary flair. Minimalist rooms look out over downtown, and guests get access to a library lounge and bike rentals. The dual cafe and bar goes by Broder Strand in the morning, when it dishes out coffee and Nordic brunch, and Stranded in the evening for drinks.

Best Things to Do

Visit a ship skeleton at Fort Stevens State Park.

A former military site that once guarded the mouth of the Columbia still endures the elements at this 4,300-acre state park. Venture inside abandoned batteries, hike along coastal dunes, camp on the edge of the continent, and pay a visit to the Peter Iredale shipwreck.

Explore Astoria’s history, from maritime to movies.

Since its 1811 founding, Astoria has lived many lives, from cannery and shipping powerhouse to film set. You can relive all those different eras at museums and historic sites, such as the stately Flavel House Museum, and dive into shipwreck stories at the Columbia River Maritime Museum. “Goonies” fans will recognize the Oregon Film Museum from the movie’s opening scene. At Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, step back to a time before Astoria existed, learning about Indigenous heritage and visiting the Corps of Discovery’s Fort Clatsop campsite.

Head to the hills.

An elevated vantage point often offers the best views, so head up to the Astoria Column, a 125-foot-tall tower on top of Coxcomb Hill. Climb the spiraling staircase to the top for the full picture. Another not-to-be-missed view can be found at the peak of the Pigeon Steps, which overlooks downtown.

Unlock your inner explorer on hiking trails.

From woodsy walks to heritage routes, Astoria’s range of trails encompasses nature and history. Trek up to the Astoria Column along the Cathedral Tree Trail (and pay a visit to a 300-year-old Sitka spruce along the way), follow in Lewis and Clark’s footsteps on the Fort to Sea Trail, and stroll along over six miles of Columbia shoreline on the Riverwalk trail.

Discover downtown and the riverfront.

Start the day with yelping sea lions and a Coffee Girl latte at Pier 39, a 150-year-old former cannery, before hitting the town. Pop into galleries, browse shops (Astoria Vintage Hardware, Menagerie Co-Op, and Lucy’s Books come recommended), and admire downtown’s historic buildings. When you need refreshment, slake your thirst at one of the locally founded breweries; there are quite a few, including Buoy Beer, Astoria Brewing Company, and Obelisk Beer Co.

Best Restaurants

Fort George Brewery

One of Astoria’s homegrown breweries, Fort George Brewery’s Public House occupies an entire city block. Inside, there’s a pub, pizzeria, and taproom, giving diners the choice to pair their IPAs and pale ales with wood-fired ‘zas, poutine, or burgers. Grab take-home cans in the brewery store, and take a $10 tour for a behind-the-scenes look.

Bowpicker Fish & Chips

Cult-favorite beer-battered fish and chips fly out the walk-up window at this repurposed gillnet boat. There’s nearly always a line, so be patient, and check online for opening hours as the winds sometimes force them to close up shop.

Broder Strand

Get a taste of Astoria’s Scandinavian heritage at this coastal outpost from Broder, a regional string of Nordic eateries with locations in Portland and Hood River. Tuck into savory lefse potato crepes and bite-sized ebelskiver pancake balls for breakfast, or opt for more brunch-y fish boards and Swedish meatballs. Top it off with an aquavit brunch cocktail.

South Bay Wild Fish House

This family-run restaurant sources its own uber-fresh seafood courtesy of its commercial fishing vessel. Scan the menu for what’s on offer, like dungeness crab and pink shrimp cakes, oyster shooters, and fish tacos.

Daphne

Nestled among the seafood joints and pub-grub eateries is this little farm-to-table outfit that DePledge gushes over. Microseasonal menus bring the freshest catch or foraging finds to the plate, alongside Pacific Northwest wines.

Best Time To Visit

Summer’s sunshine and warm weather bring out Astoria’s “pretty” side and give you the best weather for hikes, boating, and other outdoor fun. But those wanting a taste of the Oregon coast’s famously moody weather will want to visit in winter for storm-watching at Cape Disappointment, bracing beach walks, and snuggling up in fire-warmed hotel rooms.

“Fall and winter are the best times,” says DePledge. “Even when it’s stormy, there’s something cozy and magical.”

But heed Wuebben’s packing advice: “The weather can be unpredictable–pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy shoes.”

The Astoria Warrenton Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival in April draws seafood fiends, while summer’s Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival celebrates the area’s Nordic heritage. For those not afraid of heights, autumn’s Great Columbia Crossing 10K allows intrepid runners and walkers to cross the Astoria-Megler Bridge on foot.

How to Get There

Astoria Regional Airport (AST) doesn’t receive commercial flights, so your best bet is to fly into Portland International Airport (PDX), located two hours upriver in its namesake city. From there, rent a car and make the scenic, winding drive along the Columbia River to the Astoria area.

Cities to Visit

Long Beach Peninsula

On the other side of the Columbia, Long Beach Peninsula on Washington’s Evergreen Coast is said to have the world’s longest drivable beach at 28 miles. Head over to this neck of the woods for wild waves at Cape Disappointment State Park, biscuit sandwiches and coffee from Seaview Biscuit Company, and all-seasons glamping at Snow Peak Campfield.

Warrenton

Pop across Young’s Bay to Astoria’s next-door neighbor, which you’ll need to transit through to reach Fort Stevens State Park. The Warrenton Waterfront Trail makes for a great ship-spotting walk, and the town has its own handful of charming Victorian homes and historic landmarks.

How to Get Around

As Wuebben recommends: “Leave your car behind.” Astoria’s downtown and riverfront is best experienced on foot, with sea breeze in your hair and seagull cries as backing tracks. Car-free visitors can take the Sunset Empire Transportation District’s NW connector bus, or, in summer, ride the historic Astoria Riverfront Trolley. For exploring further afield, it is best to have a car, though, and rental choices are available in town.

Read the original article on Travel & Leisure