Imagine Bedford Falls but draped in Spanish moss instead of snow. That’s Christmas in Beaufort, South Carolina. Like the fictional town in the classic movie It’s a Wonderful Life, Beaufort is a place where the bustling historic district is relatively compact yet stuffed full as Santa’s sack with character. During the season, residents spread cheer with abandon and the true spirit of the holidays prevails, even for a bewildered George Bailey. You can almost picture James Stewart, as Bailey, ambling down Beaufort’s Bay Street, perhaps ducking into Kilwins candy shop, where a sugary praline is sure to set things right. In both Bedford Falls and Beaufort, miracles seem at the ready.
This Lowcountry gem nestled on Port Royal Island is magical year-round, but at Christmas, Beaufort’s glow twinkles even brighter. Maybe it’s the soaring tree sparkling in Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park or perhaps the decked out vessels gliding along the river for the always-popular Light Up the Night Boat Parade. Or maybe it’s simply that a sense of ““goodwill to all” feels genuine here. It surely does as you hold back tears while watching the annual laying of thousands of real evergreen wreaths on headstones at Beaufort National Cemetery in a moving tribute to our country’s veterans as part of Wreaths Across America.
Related: 30 Festive Small Towns That Promise A Charming Christmas Getaway
Downtown Delights
To get Beaufort’s fullest flavor, aim to visit during the first weekend of December, when the festivities are nonstop. On Saturday evening, streets close and pedestrians flood Bay Street and its offshoots to celebrate Night on the Town. Merchants stay open late, offering complimentary treats and beverages to shoppers looking for unique, often handmade or locally sourced gifts. A still-fresh Santa (it’s early December, so he’s just getting started) poses for photos with kids outside The Beaufort Candy Shoppe, and the Parris Island Marine Band presents a free concert of seasonal tunes. The annual reading of “A Visit From St. Nicholas” concludes with the town’s tree lighting, complete with faux snow, delivering the full cinematic effect.
One of Beaufort’s charms is that the busy downtown shopping area is hardly just another “Anywhere, U.S.A.” Don’t expect to find many big-box retailers here. Instead, stores like Sweet Bay (with exquisitely curated home accessories, jewelry, and art) and Southern Tide (featuring coastal-casual attire for men, women, and children) populate the historic commercial district, which means your presents will stand apart from Aunt Beverly’s gift cards. Even if there are no little ones on your list, don’t miss Monkey’s Uncle, a locally owned toy shop that will tug at the hopeful, excited-for-the-holidays kid who still lives inside each of us.
A Night To Remember
“Christmas in Beaufort is special because we’re small enough to still have that community homecoming-type feeling. There’s a true sense of celebration,” says Anita Singleton Prather, a Beaufort County Sea Island native who’s better known in these parts as “Aunt Pearlie Sue,” her stage-and-storytelling persona. Her Gullah Kinfolk Traveling Theater highlights the rich cultural heritage of the Gullah community, descendants of the enslaved Africans who made South Carolina’s lucrative rice economy (and Beaufort’s antebellum homes) possible.
Peter Frank Edwards
Connie Singleton-Murphy performs in the Gullah Kinfolk Christmas musical
Their musical, Christmas Wish…Freedom, revisits the last holiday season before the start of the Civil War. “As I researched, I was fascinated to find that many of their traditions we still carry on,” says Prather, whose childhood memories include being gifted “a brown sack full of pecans, oranges, and peppermint sticks” at Christmastime, “which is what some plantation owners gave the enslaved, especially the peppermint.” Her original production tells about how the holidays were a popular time for “jumping the broom” (getting married), as it was the only time of the year when enslaved men and women might be able to get more than one day off. And because the plantation owners were distracted by their own celebrations, this was when enslaved people often tried to escape. “Their Gullah Christmas wish,” she says, “was always a wish for freedom.”
In addition to the performances, Prather and her team also organize the Gullah Taste of Christmas and Rice Cookoff at Waterfront Park, a Saturday full of showcasing (and enjoying) winter favorites, with vendors and artisans providing foods and crafts. “If folks come to everything, when they leave, they be Gullahed up and down,” Prather adds with an Aunt Pearlie Sue chuckle.
A Feast For The Senses
You’ll experience plenty of merriment beyond that first December weekend, especially if you’re seeking a reprieve from holiday-hubbub overload. Beaufort’s relaxed pace and oak-canopied streets invite meandering. During this time of year, strolling or biking through the historic district in the town’s quaint Northwest Quadrant (where glossy magnolia wreaths and fresh cypress swags decorate homes) will stir imagination and wonder—and will likely prompt a Zillow click or two.
Fuel your ramblings with a late breakfast or lunch at Lowcountry Produce, where you can also shop for the food lovers and cooks on your list. Their specialty linens and artisan sundries, such as stone-ground grits, make excellent host gifts. But save room for dinner: Saltus River Grill offers fresh regional seafood, including tasty sushi, with indoor and outdoor dining along Waterfront Park.
For a fancy night out, Ribaut Social Club (inside the historic hotel Anchorage 1770) has lovely river views and serves dishes like dry-aged pork chops or gnocchi with lamb Bolognese.
In the Lowcountry, December can also be an ideal month, weather wise (no humidity or mosquitoes), to enjoy presents that don’t have price tags—the natural treasures of Beaufort’s marshes and waterways. Coastal Expeditions offers naturalist-guided kayak outings as well as a dolphin-and-history boat tour.
And if time allows, it’s well worth taking the easy 30-minute drive to Hunting Island State Park, where you can explore maritime forests and 5 miles of beaches, check out a 19th-century lighthouse, and catch the sunset from a boardwalk. It’s a sure way to find what we’re all really seeking over the holidays—peace on earth.
Best Places To Stay
Cuthbert House
After a recent renovation, this 18th-century mansion shines, hitting the perfect balance of period grandeur and modern comfort. The wicker-furnished front porch provides a classic and comfortable Southern welcome.
cuthberthouse.com
Anchorage 1770
This boutique waterside inn is Beaufort’s oldest and largest tabby structure that’s still in use—and it’s one of the town’s most beautiful places to stay.
anchorage1770.com
City Loft Hotel
With 22 upscale motel-style rooms, City Loft adds a hip, retro vibe to Beaufort’s historic ambience. Located at the edge of The Point neighborhood, it’s convenient for shopping and wandering around.
citylofthotel.com
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