According to travel expert Rick Steves, a trip to Budapest isn’t complete without a few hours spent bathing in the thermal waters of the city’s most iconic bathhouse. Over a century old, the Szechenyi Baths (pronounced “say-chain-nee”) were built surrounded by a Neo-Baroque-style palace after a more rudimentary thermal bath created in the 1860s proved extremely popular. As Rick Steves explains, “Locals brag that if you poke a hole in the ground anywhere in Hungary, you’ll find a hot-water spring.” City dwellers did just that in the 19th century, finding thermal waters below the park and attracting 2,400 visitors per day as early as 1919. Now, tourists and locals alike can spend all day floating in the thermal pools surrounded by charming lemon-colored palatial walls, steam hovering in the cool air as rowdy locals play chess on the water’s edges.
In the many decades since the first Hungarians bathed in the thermal waters of City Park, Szechenyi Baths has grown to include 18 indoor and outdoor pools, plus numerous steam rooms, saunas, cold plunge pools, a beer spa (for the health benefits), and options for spa treatments. The practice of bathing in the region’s thermal waters goes back to Roman times and is a must for travelers. A few insider tips: don’t forget a bathing suit and a towel, or you’ll have to buy pricy swim gear on site. The bath house also suggests booking online in advance to ensure your spot.
Take Metro line 1 from Budapest’s central districts to the Szechenyi Thermal Bath station, where you’ll exit right into the center of City Park, one of Budapest’s most expansive green areas. Here, you’ll find plenty of capital city ambiance: lush walking trails, cafes, and art museums abound. Cooler months also bring igloo bars, where guests can have mulled wine or Hungarian langos (deep fried bread, usually topped with sour cream, garlic, and shredded cheese) while lounging in a heated dome.
Read more: The Biggest Tourist Traps In Europe, According To Rick Steves
A day at Szechenyi Baths
Visitors playing chess inside Szechenyi Baths – Connect Images/ben Pipe Photography/Getty Images
When you’re ready to experience Budapest’s famous bathhouses, head through the main entrance, and mentally prepare for a little chaos. As Rick Steves found: “The seemingly confusing entry procedure is like a time-warp back to communist bureaucracy…but that’s all part of the experience, and somehow, it works.” If the less-than-efficient entrance feels stressful, all negative feelings will dissipate once plunging into the relaxing waters.
At Szechenyi, you can easily spend the whole day moving from sauna to cold plunge to outdoor thermal bath. Maybe head to the lap pool for a quick workout underneath the cast of the winter sun, or ask one of the locals playing chess in the thermal pool for a chance to test your skills. Head to the cafe for a hearty goulash soup or a light Greek salad. However you spend your day at the baths, you’re sure to leave feeling renewed. Locals often think of bathing in thermal waters as one key to a healthy lifestyle. In fact, Rick Steves notes, “The baths are actually a part of the health-care system. Doctors regularly prescribe treatments that include massage, soaking in baths of various heat and mineral compositions, and swimming laps.”
Tickets start at around $45 for weekday passes, with upgrade options that include additional amenities, like bath robes, tea, massages, and access to the rooftop greenhouse lounge. A three-year renovation project is currently underway at Szechenyi, but when you buy your ticket online, the site will outline any areas currently out of use.
Thermal baths for every traveler and budget
Bird’s eye view of a pool at Lukács Thermal Bath – Kurka Geza Corey/Shutterstock
While even locals admit the Baroque beauty of Szechenyi Baths is unsurpassed, foreigners tend to outnumber locals here. After you’ve seen the opulence of Szechenyi (or if you want to save on the entrance price but still enjoy Budapest’s thermal waters), head to one of the city’s lesser-known bathing hubs.
Veli Bej, sometimes considered one of Budapest’s best secret thermal baths, costs around $17 for a three hour morning pass, and includes five pools, several saunas, and plenty of local flair. Lukács Thermal Bath costs $21 on weekdays and also includes several indoor and outdoor bathing options, plus saunas of varying temperatures.
Rick Steves recommends Gellért Baths for a “more luxurious and sedate” option to Szechenyi. A stunning Art Nouveau masterpiece, Gellért even offers an outdoor wave pool in summertime (note: Gellért is currently in renovation and will be closed until 2028). Whether you’re hoping for an evening spa party complete with a DJ and pool-side shots (a weekly occurrence at Szechenyi) or a chance to surround yourself with locals, there’s a thermal house experience for every traveler in Budapest. Can’t get to Hungary just yet, but want to experience some of the Szechenyi charm this winter? Head over to one of the 12 highly rated hotels in America with the best spas.
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