For all the glory and attention paid to the Caribbean’s turquoise shores and bucolic nature, there’s a worthy competitor about 1,500 miles to the north. Lake Ontario — yes, that far north — is lined with destinations equal to the task of wowing visitors, while having fewer logistical headaches. Port Hope, a friendly Canadian gem with a quaint downtown and gorgeous beaches, suits visitors who appreciate sand and water but can do without the tropical humidity. You can find it just across the water from Rochester, an upstate New York City with a walkable downtown that’s become a draw in and of itself.
Canada’s getaways typically demand a bit of mettle, given the harsh winters and Canadians’ love of nature. And sure, Port Hope offers plenty of that. The town is surrounded by forest trails and treks along the Ganaraska River. Mountain bikers can enjoy the same, but on two wheels. The numerous conservation areas offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor recreation, angling, or simply relaxing. The Ganaraska Forest Centre piles on the fun. Yet any first-time visitor should stick to the heart of town, which offers plenty of small-town fun and picturesque charm.
The town’s unique ambiance has caught the eye of several film and TV productions. “Schitt’s Creek” filmed its Season 5 finale at the town’s Capitol Theatre. The recent remake films of Stephen King’s “IT” used Port Hope as a stand-in for Derry, Maine, running counter to the town’s name. Not that locals mind. The filming sparked a walking tour industry. If you’re not a fan of the movie, don’t sweat it. There’s plenty to see in Port Hope that doesn’t involve demonic clowns.
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Go shop, have a beach day, and see fish migrate
Onlookers watching salmon leaping over the fish ladder in Port Hope, Ontario – JHVEPhoto/Shutterstock
Your first order of business in Port Hope? Stock up! The downtown area is full of independently owned and operated shops, with specialty offerings and galleries galore. Antique collectors should head over to Antiques on Queen, an impressive, three-story shop with everything from dinnerware to jewelry. Art aficionados have six galleries to choose from, ranging from contemporary to folk art and exhibitions at the Northumberland Arts Gallery and Shop. End your stroll through downtown at Dreamer’s Cafe, home of the Crazy Cookie, a sugar bomb of caramel, chocolate, and pecans.
You’d probably not pack your swim trunks and towel at first. Wrong. Port Hope goes against the grain, touting two outstanding beaches that locals cherish. Conveniently named East Beach and West Beach, travelers can enjoy all the activities that come along with a regular day at the beach. The East Beach is ideal for sandy fun, while its stony western counterpart is great for skipping rocks. The beaches come without the crowds and worries about surf or riptide (the beaches are on Lake Ontario, after all). But alongside the gorgeous shoreline, the aquatic residents put on an impressive show.
Port Hope enjoys an underrated yet unique event every year, from late summer to the beginning of October. Salmon migrate through town, up the Ganaraska River to spawning areas further north. The Chinook and Coho salmon, up to 19,000 in total, create a wriggling mass, hopping and splashing upstream to the town’s fish ladder. It’s a miniaturized version of a similar show put on at Campbell River, the “Salmon Capital of the World.” If the salmon’s migration doesn’t match your itinerary, no worries. Trout make the same trip every spring and fall.
The logistics of visiting Port Hope
Beach on Lake Ontario in Port Hope – Jimfeng/Getty Images
The lucky few who live close enough to drive to Port Hope definitely should. The rest will have to hop on a plane to Toronto Pearson International Airport, one of the closest major travel hubs. Try to steady your nerves when you land, as it’s, without a doubt, North America’s most stressful airport. Luckily, you can leave as soon as you arrive, taking about an hour and 20 minutes to reach Port Hope by car. Stop at Hamilton, Ontario, along the way if you can, though. It’s considered the “Waterfall Capital of the World.” You can also skip the car, taking a 90-minute bus ride and a 20-minute cab hop from Cobourg. Given the town’s walkability, it’s an option worth considering.
The lodging at Port Hope matches the town’s overall ambiance, with charming accommodations located within its downtown. Given the town’s small size, a prime location is ideal. The Hotel Carlyle offers a boutique hotel experience in the heart of Port Hope, letting guests keep their rental cars parked during their stay. Rooms can go for as little as $185 per night, though most cost well over $200. If you’d rather have something on the water, stop by Port Hope Suites. The heritage hotel’s suites have views of the water, costing about $177 per night. Given the town’s climate, you’re best off avoiding the winter months if you hate the cold. Maybe save that time for a trip to the Caribbean.
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