As a travel writer roaming the streets of Europe for decades, intrepid sojourner Rick Steves has a lot to share. One of his most interesting insider tips is to take advantage of the Italian take on happy hour, which differs considerably from American restaurant and bar versions. In an article titled, “Thriving in Europe’s Most Expensive Cities,” he reveals a tradition enjoyed by locals, but not necessarily understood by visitors. It’s called the aperitivo, which is when locals pop into bars after work and before dinner begins, enjoying a drink and appetizers of varying sorts and levels. Sounds familiar, like any happy hour, except — the food is often free.
In discussing the growing popularity of happy hours in Europe, Steves singles out Italy for going that extra mile. “In Rome, for example, competing bars now offer buffet spreads,” he explains, “free for the cost of a drink.” Depending on the establishment, the aperitivo tradition can include anything from simple bowls of olives, nuts, or chips to full-on apericena buffet spreads, which can stand in for a light dinner. Apericena is a mash-up of aperitivo and cena (meaning dinner). They’re available to patrons who order drinks. Since dinner starts as late as 8 p.m. or 9 p.m. in Italy, the aperitivo hours generally run from about 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., but sometimes later.
The modern custom of aperitivo reportedly has roots in Turin, around the birth of vermouth in the late 1700s, when an herbalist by the name of A. B. Carpano’s popularized pre-dinner drinking with herb-infused wines. Regardless of origin, it’s widely popular across major cities in Italy.
Read more: 10 Mistakes To Avoid When Dining In Italy
Popular aperitivo spots across Italy
Venetian cicchetti with 2 glasses of white wine – Fivetonine/Getty Images
Aperitivo plates and apericena buffets vary in interpretation, some more elaborate than others. They’re mostly free with drinks, though some establishments tack on a few extra euros depending on the spread and clientele. Certain customs are also tied loosely to specific cities. For example, Milan leans toward the apericena buffet, while Florence venues often pair wine or cocktails with taglieri charcuterie boards featuring local cheeses, salami, prosciutto, olives, and breads, or inexpensive combos of wine plus deep-fried coccoli dough balls. In Sienna, Steves recommends spritzes and munchies in il Campo, the main piazza, to soak up the atmosphere.
Venice goes all-in with what’s known as cicchetti culture, featuring small piled-high toast appetizers and seafood bites such as codfish — which are inexpensive snacks to go with a drink. And then there’s Rome, the all-encompassing cosmopolitan mix of cultures. Aperitivo places thrive throughout the city, with some favorite spots including Freni e Frizioni, known for its unlimited candle-lit and low-priced aperitivo buffet, with plenty of vegetarian options. It features fun, trendy, garage-themed decor and contemporary art, plus an expansive outdoor terrace and innovative signature cocktails. At Momart, you’ll find a casual ambiance with an affordable set-price drink and unlimited apericena buffet featuring hot wood-fire pizza.
In addition to dishing on Italian aperitivo culture, Steves offers plenty more food tips for hungry travelers in Europe, including buying food from street markets and food stalls for picnics, and even seeking out restaurants with handwritten menus. He also shares insights into finding cheap food and good conversation in Europe — hint: look to the locals.
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Read the original article on Tasting Table.